[thebus79h]

TJ Performance (Oil is named TJ Racing Oil) has actually been working with a company based out of Indianapolis to create a racing oil that is geared specifically for methanol, and we have done just that. In a late model engine, we have out performed every single oil we have tested, and ours is pure mineral oil. We have gone against Brad Penn, Joe Gibbs XP-5, Joe Gibbs XP-3, VR-1, and a few others.

The advantages you are getting from oil is not power, it's reliability. The company we are developing this with works in the military background (Nuclear Subs, Humvees, and Coast Guard Helicopters), they've done extensive work with synthetics, and the only thing you really gain from synthetics is reliability over a long race.

As far as weights go, it opens a huge can of worms, due to the fact that weight has very little to do with how an oil works. The only thing weight does is either restrict going into the passages of the motor, and make it thicker. Some use the theory of when a 50 weight oil gets hot, it stays thicker like a 40 or a 30 weight. This is true, but if the Viscosity Index isn't where it needs to be, then you don't have a good oil to begin with. Our oils VI is at 162, where Joe Gibbs is at 136, and Brad Penn 20w-50 is at 108. When Brad Penn heats up, it is losing it's viscosity, and bringing it down quite a bit, where ours, is still going to be just as good of a lubricant at 200 degrees, as Joe Gibbs XP-3 is when it's cold. Many sprint car people we've talked to have said 50 weight oil is a must, but that may not be the case, we are doing testing on this very soon. In the mini sprint world, we are running a 40 weight oil, and will be testing some 30 weight, 20 weight, and possibly even some 0 weight by the end of the year. Remember, it's all about Viscosity Index.

We are actually releasing our oil to the public within the next month or so, and we have already had teams running it. Sara Elrod raced at it Duquoin both times this year, and everything we have labs wise, it can go many more races, as it's cleaner after two races, than what Brad Penn was out of the bottle.

For more information, feel free to give me a call anytime at 765-259-1191, or email me at browlee@gofastkleeneasy.com

Website for the oil is coming soon, as right now we just have a mockup.

[Revolution Racing]

Years ago Bob Patison from Lucas Oil told me something that has alsways stuck with me. He said "There are quite a few really good oils on the market. Use one".

Over the past 15 years I have had occasion to be inside of more motors than I care to think about. I've inspected almost-new engines, older ones that have given great service, and of course, engines that died before their time. After all of that, bob's words mean more to me now than ever. Here is what I've been taught, and what I pass along to my customers;

Use a full synthetic race oil of the viscosity reccomended by your builder. Synthec oils feature a longer-chain molecule, and this compsoition is what gives them better film strength properties. Petroleum oils will lubricate just as well as synthetics, but synthetics won't break down as quickly and when bad things do happen, you might get just that little bit of extra protection that spells the difference between a minor repair and a major overhaul. Don't pay any attention to what the top fuel cars run - remember, they only use their oil for about 4 seconds! You could use Pennzoil for that...

So what is a "good' synthetic? I have not tested them all and I'm sure that there are several great ones that I just have not worked with. But I have had very good luck with Lucas, Red Line, and the Gibbs oil. ALiSyn is also excellent if you can get it - don't know if its still being made. I've also used good 'ol Mobil 1 right off the shelf from Kragen on many occasions and will go to it in a pinch without a second thought. But for me, the best oil I've ever worked with is Royal Purple. I can tell a Royal Purple engine the second I look inside it.

Also remember, the best oil in the world wont work if its burnt or diluted. If you get the motor hot, if your fuel is off and you milk it down, if your crew chief leaves a cap off and you dump a load of dirt in there.... get that oil out.

BTW, the zinc issues as I understand it, mostly affects flat tappet engines. We have not seen any issues with the DOHC engines we work on, but for those who need help with this there are some additives that have been developed - I've heard good things about the Lucas additive - I'm sure there are others.

GOOD LUCK!

[thebus79h]

You bring up some very good points. Biggest thing when choosing oils, is making sure that if you are buying a synthetic, but a true synthetic.

Lucas Oil is one of the only PAO synthetics. Most of your "Full Synthetics" are not a full synthetic, there are definitely lots of options, but that's facts.

We've done lab testing on plenty of oils, and have learned a lot over the last six months. Once our website is up and ready to go, I'll show the link to show what we've found.

[Revolution Racing]

Billy I'd be very interested to talk to you about the work you are doing. Contact me when you have time...

Keith@revolutionracingengines.com

[thebus79h]

Originally Posted by Revolution Racing Billy I'd be very interested to talk to you about the work you are doing. Contact me when you have time... Keith@revolutionracingengines.com

Email sent Keith!