[fasster23]

Got some questions on non-wing sprint brakes. I'm currently running a 7/8 master cyl w/ 2 psi residual valve, solid scalloped drilled steel LF rotor with Wilwood Dyna Pro sngl piston caliper, inboard .810 scalloped vented rotor with Wilwood Super Lite 4 piston lug mounted caliper. No LR or RR brake. I'm not looking to break the bank with Ti brakes just trying to get better stopping power. I know by going to smaller MC you get more pressure but harder shorter pedal travel. Anyone find a setup they like? Are the newer radial mounted inboard calipers worth trying? From what I can tell the radial mount is nice if you're changing rotor dia you can just respace the caliper, but is the geometry to where it applies better force? I think it's stronger than the lug mount so you have less worry of breaking the bolts or ears off but mine doesn't stop hard enough to be worrying about that yet. I've made sure to pull off the LF caliper when bleeding so as to not trap any air. Wilwood hasn't returned my email yet so I thought I'd ask here. Thanks

[DaveB@Wilwood]

The package you have should be more than enough braking. No need to go spend money just to spend money, I would be curious to know pad compound as that sounds like the issue, BP40 compound for iron is best. The smaller master does in fact increase line pressure with effect of softer longer pedal. 1" master more the norm little stiffer pedal and shorter movement. I'm not a fan of scalloped rear rotors unless used in moderate braking applications, they don't like heat and will explode. For the little extra weight run a full .81 and will have no issues and will increase brake effectiveness by more contact area. The radial caliper is stiffer, smoother operation and user friendly for maintenance. Feel free to email me direct with questions.
Dbrzozowski@wilwood.com

[fasster23]

Thanks Dave. I'll be in touch soon