[Baylands]

If asked, I would suggest that If your budget doesn't allow buying a new top of the line 410/360/305 (new=best value in long run) I would buy a used, but fresh motor from one of the common builders like Ott, Shaver, Kistler, Wesmar etc. It will be good parts and easy to sell when it is time to build new or upgrade to a better used one as budget increases. If you are talking about building new, a local builder should be no cheaper than the top builders. Maybe 5% less if they are willing to work for less labor shop rate, skip the dyno test, etc. The parts drive the great majority of the price of the motor, not the labor. If your local builder is much cheaper, it is because he is willing to use less expensive parts, and on rebuilds use parts like valves, lifters, rockers, etc longer between replacement. Ever dropped a valve? I have not, and have been racing for over 30 years with 3 sprint championships including USAC. We have used Wesmar, Ostrich with great results in the past and now use the current Shaver 410's and 360's. No substitute for hp and reliability if you plan on running up front. I don't agree that you can overcome less horsepower with setup and driving. That would assume your competitor with more hp missed the setup, or the track conditions can't take the additional horsepower. You think Rico or Kyle got where they are driving cars with 30 hp less, or 30 hp more? Save your money and wait until you can afford a motor at least as good as the fastest guys where you race, or your driver will start to overdrive the car to try and make up for the lack of power. Amazing how easy car setup becomes when the Horsepower is there with a good driver. The good builders mentioned like Foxco and Claxton are also as good of a choice as Shaver, Gaerte, etc. Just make it a builder that refuses to short cut even when you ask him to. Shortcuts end up very expensive. Race the class you can best afford a quality motor for and have fun running up front, instead of struggling with inferior hp in the back.

[Baylands]

I would like to add, if you are a good mechanic, very detail oriented, and starting out in a local limited class, build your own. Have a solid local shop do the machine work and advise you. We afford the big builders now because I'm older and established, and too tired at the end of the day to build motors in the garage. But in the 80's we ran a 360 with new Brodix -8 heads, a stock 010 block, GM forged crank and polished pink rods over a hundred races before the crank finally showed a crack during a freshen. We did rings, bearings, valve job and magnufluxed everything every 25 races. It was great fun and made the process much more personal than writing the checks like today. Nice to hear someone new to sprints starting out-

[darnall]

If I had a budget that would allow me to own one new big name motor I would instead buy two fresh used big name motors... that way you are very close to the competition horsepower wise, but you wouldn't see your season end early due to a clogged nozzle or a rock thru the pan or any of the millions of things that can go wrong and destroy a motor.

[suzuki756]

Mike Dargie engines him and his guy do great work. Raced all year with 360 adjusted 1 valve all year