[jyoung8j]

Hey guys i bought a 2010 bailey with a 08 gsxr 1000 in basically a basket..lol it has upgraded midget front end and upgraded 2" rear axle assembly kit.. Ive started the front in work which is mostly done except bolting up panhard and drag link which midget stuff uses the 1/2 stuff so need to switch heims.. main issue im looking at **** pit and im lost have no idea where pedals mount how firewall is mounted and floor.. anyone wanna help me out with some pics when i need them? I have the complete old rear assembly so i thing i can handle mocking the new from tht..thx j p.s. im a newbie havent been around these cars in 12yrs

[Jim Gardner]

Where are you located?

[jyoung8j]

Hilliard ohio

[jjones752]

Something like this; your Bailey should have a master cylinder bracket somewhere under the seat hoop; this is a much modified Doemelt but the brake pedal pivots in the same manner (It's a little too far off the floor in this pic; in reality it's adjusted to about half that distance). I have a Foz throttle that bolts to a spud welded on the frame rail. Other designs bolt directly to the floor pan, but in either case you want the cross bar to fall right under or just ahead of the ball of your foot. I also run a Foz Throttle Jockey setup as shown in the last pic.

[jjones752]

You should be able to find sleeves to adapt the larger midget heims to the chassis spuds at a good racer's warehouse.

[Jim Gardner]

Personally I'd stay away from the sleeves to make your chassis and components work. Rod end supply has stepped rod ends to make up for it. If you're bolting up the front axle and it requires 1/2 inch bolts but your chassis has 3/8 mounting spuds, then buy a stepped rod end 3/8 hole to 7/16 shank, run a 7/16 radius rod, then a 7/16 shank to 1/2 hole rod end. Make sure that you have the correct left and right hand threads also.

What you don't need to happen is the sleeve to fall out on to the grass in the pits while you're adjusting something.

[jjones752]

Originally Posted by Jim Gardner Personally I'd stay away from the sleeves to make your chassis and components work. Rod end supply has stepped rod ends to make up for it. If you're bolting up the front axle and it requires 1/2 inch bolts but your chassis has 3/8 mounting spuds, then buy a stepped rod end 3/8 hole to 7/16 shank, run a 7/16 radius rod, then a 7/16 shank to 1/2 hole rod end. Make sure that you have the correct left and right hand threads also. What you don't need to happen is the sleeve to fall out on to the grass in the pits while you're adjusting something.

Not a bad point Jim, but losing parts in the grass never happens; stuff never rolls under the workbench and disappears into a wormhole either.
I bet the Bermuda Triangle is full of 3/8 sockets, brass bushings and those little-bitty coil wire screws...

[jyoung8j]

Jjones.. wht car is that? Looks that's what I'm missing is a bracket on floor to bolt up the pedal.. I've looked at the throttle jockey also looks nice and clean.. I have to find wht car has with it cuz actually think thts what he had on it.. if this is a bailey do u have any pics of the rear axle? Right birdcage and left thx guys

[jyoung8j]

Jim.. I have 7/16 radius rods I think I'm just going to take into machine shop and have them drill and tap them to 1/2 and just get new heim..

[jjones752]

The Yellow Zonker is kind of a mutt; told it started life as a Doemelt but it's been changed over to a wishbone rear setup, although it does use Bailey birdcages. I may have a couple of shots of the rear end; the only difference would be where the two points where my wishbone mounts would be where your inidividual 4-link radius rods go. I'll look for the pics and post them if I can find them.