Ok all you engine guys, need some help. How can I remove some Hard Block engine sealer from an aluminum sprint car block? Is there a chemical out there that I can use to just break this stuff down and rinse it out?

We are having issues on the left side of our motor with heat and pistons and after further inspection it was discovered the left side of the block is almost totally full of hard block repair grout/concrete and has almost zero water flow.

P.S. Throwing the block into the river is not an option...LOL

Throw it in the lake? Sorry, couldn't help myself.

Not an engine builder, but I wonder if using the lest aggressive form of media blasting on the water jackets would help to break it up.

using a small masonry bit with a hammer drill may help break it up some but thats some tough stuff. Essentially it's specially formulated concrete. Used in my production ford blocks before I went to a motorsport block.

We had one that was full on both sides never had any issues with it give dave conn a call might be something else causing your problem

I'll call him Kenny...We have had no issues with anything on the right side of the motor in 3 years,,,and there is nothing in those water jackets. Burnt 4 pistons on the left side (3 in #5 cylinder) and that's the side with the block repair. It is almost totally full of the stuff.

The hard block is a last resort repair for a cracked block. It works about 60% of the time. I give that hole bout .0015 more skirt clearance. When doing this procedure you must reverse cool the system. I have NEVER completely filled an entire side of a block. I only encapsulate the cyl that's cracked. I would have your entire fuel system checked and IF the timing is correct have the rotor phasing checked as well.

Thanks for the reply Dave. We had the mag checked and it was good. Probably gonna get a different block.

So, will it end up in the river or lake?

I think this would be a great block for a drag racer or mud bogging...it will run fine for short periods of time. Where we get in trouble is toward the end of feature events.

We have had the impellers come loose on the water pump before and cause an issue like this. They will be tight cold. As the engine heats up it starts slipping until no circulation happens. Get you a new impeller from Speedy Bill and if the drive side isn`t welded to the shaft ( early KSE were pressed ) , weld it to the shaft. Since the concrete is on the left side , this would leave less standing water to dissipate heat. Hope this helps.