Originally Posted by Bradleyracing86:
The issue is all aftermarket pistons have altered domes, you can put just as much compression on oem with the right cam timing and a mill.
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Phil
Like Andy said valve timing does have a lot to do with cranking compression pressure. Longer cam duration (RACE CAM) and and or closing the intake valve Later in the timing event (RETARDING CAM) will lower the cranking compression. It can't make any compression until the intake valve closes at slow cranking speeds. The AMSA tried compression checking many years ago and found it didn't work.
Actual compression ratio depends on two measurements. The total volume of the cylinder measured at bottom dead center including the volume of the combustion chamber to the bottom of the plug hole. Then you need to measure the volume at top dead center all the way up to the bottom of the plug hole. Divide the first reading by the second reading and you get compression ratio. Just measuring the Volume at TDC only probably won't get what you are looking for. Also the cylinder has to be perfectly vertical (you would have to hang car from a crane). I bought a 300cc graduated cylinder 10 years ago to try this out. Valves opening and closing and in-trapped air are your big problems. I was able to measure displacement with this set up by only using only part of the power stroke and a known stroke measurement taken mechanically.
You have a bore scope already, a JE or Wisco piston does not look like a stock piston, they are not supposed to, the machine work is much better, the crown of their piston is not like the stock one's because they all raise the CR just a little, a good reason for buying an aftermarket piston, for that reason one would be hard pressed to find an after market piston with a stock CR.
The best way I know to tell you how to spot an engine with altered compression ratio is to observe the top of the piston. Almost all 4 valve M/C pistons have a little round spot machined into the piston just below the spark plug. They also have 2 lines going across the piston crown cutting the valve relief on the top of the piston, the distance from the little round machine spot to the lines on the valve relief will get closer as you raise the crown of the piston and the compression ratio.
All you need to check a head for milling is a 6 inch caliper, remove the valve cover find an exposed portion of the head where it meets the block, measure from that spot to the machine surface for the valve cover and the milled head will stick out like a trd in the punch bowl.
Frankly I can not understand why a group would allow after market pistons and be worried about compression ratios.
If this guy is still bothering you guys, what I would do is go in the infield set up two cones one at entrance to turn #1 and one at the exit of turn #2. Have someone clock him between the two cones only, and then have them clock the next fastest guy, is there a difference in their times?
Honest Dad himself

