front torsion bars

bobbyg45 · 5/28/14, 9:23 AM

What size torsion bars do most run on a lighting sprint in the front ? Just need a idea right now it has 875/875

DAD · 5/28/14, 9:36 AM

Bobby

Bar sizes vary from chassis builder to chassis builder. If you know what kinda of car it is give the builder a call. If not things like arm length axle offset weight and intended use must be taken into consideration. I would start with what I had and work from there. It sounds like you bought a used car if so age and condition of bar may really throw you a curve. They do wear out and if they are you will be chasing your tail.

Honest Dad himself

bobbyg45 · 5/28/14, 9:44 AM

Its a doemelt chassis so cant call them was thinking going to a 750rf 725lf was thinking 875/875 are to stiff but I have no clue

cws9 · 5/28/14, 10:02 AM

I used to run 800's in my Doemelt in the front.

jjones752 · 5/28/14, 10:13 AM

Bobby,
I have a Doemelt as well and I've been told that a Bailey setup works. I think you're right in assuming 875's are too stiff, and 750/725 may put you in the ballpark. I'd have to check my setup sheet to be sure and I'm not at home right now, but I think that's what I've gone with and it seems to be working for me so far, using Bailey torsion arms. I'm running strictly non-wing so is you're running a wing your results may vary.
Another option would be to try what you've got and if it feels too stiff adjust from there. Dad has a point too; if you don't know how old the bars are I'd highly recommend getting them dynoed. Also, how the front end reacts is somewhat dependent on how the rear is set up too...

TQ29m · 5/28/14, 10:18 AM

I prefer to run a lot of difference between R and L, something in the neighborhood of .100- .125, example, .625 left front, .750 Rf, then you hold the car up with the .625, and keep it up with the .750, puts a pre-load in the Lf bar, so when you pick up the throttle, it is ready to do some transferring to the rear. Has worked good for me for years. BTW, I think Clay is still doing some business, so you might google him, and see if his number is listed. Bob

jjones752 · 5/28/14, 10:38 AM

For what it's worth, I used Jimmy Sills' Midget setup video to determine the splits; a pretty good reference point, especially for non-wing setups.

cmiracingvids · 6/3/14, 10:32 PM

Bobby
I like to keep my fronts the same. 800s are what was in my old car, and it was a Bishop. It handled great, but was blocked at 1.5"

For a slick track, I think 875 is too stiff. But around 800 should be good.

5/28/14, 10:13 AM	#5 Re: front torsion bars
jjones752 Senior Member Race Count This Year: 19 Race Count Last Year: 22 Join Date: Jul 2011 Posts: 2,259	Bobby, I have a Doemelt as well and I've been told that a Bailey setup works. I think you're right in assuming 875's are too stiff, and 750/725 may put you in the ballpark. I'd have to check my setup sheet to be sure and I'm not at home right now, but I think that's what I've gone with and it seems to be working for me so far, using Bailey torsion arms. I'm running strictly non-wing so is you're running a wing your results may vary. Another option would be to try what you've got and if it feels too stiff adjust from there. Dad has a point too; if you don't know how old the bars are I'd highly recommend getting them dynoed. Also, how the front end reacts is somewhat dependent on how the rear is set up too... __________________ Jim Jones Midwest Thunder Speed2 Midget #97

5/28/14, 10:18 AM	#6 Re: front torsion bars
TQ29m Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 6,646	I prefer to run a lot of difference between R and L, something in the neighborhood of .100- .125, example, .625 left front, .750 Rf, then you hold the car up with the .625, and keep it up with the .750, puts a pre-load in the Lf bar, so when you pick up the throttle, it is ready to do some transferring to the rear. Has worked good for me for years. BTW, I think Clay is still doing some business, so you might google him, and see if his number is listed. Bob __________________ "Being old, isn't half as much fun, as getting there"! Ole Robert I!

5/28/14, 10:38 AM	#7 Re: front torsion bars
jjones752 Senior Member Race Count This Year: 19 Race Count Last Year: 22 Join Date: Jul 2011 Posts: 2,259	For what it's worth, I used Jimmy Sills' Midget setup video to determine the splits; a pretty good reference point, especially for non-wing setups. __________________ Jim Jones Midwest Thunder Speed2 Midget #97

5/28/14, 9:23 AM	#1 front torsion bars
bobbyg45 Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 70	What size torsion bars do most run on a lighting sprint in the front ? Just need a idea right now it has 875/875

5/28/14, 9:36 AM	#2 Re: front torsion bars
DAD Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 5,957	Bobby Bar sizes vary from chassis builder to chassis builder. If you know what kinda of car it is give the builder a call. If not things like arm length axle offset weight and intended use must be taken into consideration. I would start with what I had and work from there. It sounds like you bought a used car if so age and condition of bar may really throw you a curve. They do wear out and if they are you will be chasing your tail. Honest Dad himself

5/28/14, 9:44 AM	#3
bobbyg45 Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 70	Its a doemelt chassis so cant call them was thinking going to a 750rf 725lf was thinking 875/875 are to stiff but I have no clue

5/28/14, 10:02 AM	#4 Re: front torsion bars
cws9 Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Posts: 182	I used to run 800's in my Doemelt in the front.

6/3/14, 10:32 PM	#8
cmiracingvids Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Posts: 1,324	Bobby I like to keep my fronts the same. 800s are what was in my old car, and it was a Bishop. It handled great, but was blocked at 1.5" For a slick track, I think 875 is too stiff. But around 800 should be good.