[TQ29m]

Thanks for the input Mike, it was done several years ago, with a Honda Hurricane, and has been done since with a Kaw I think, I was just trying to save some room in the chassis, and also be sure the rotating parts would get the benefit of the dry sump oiling, my engine bay is pretty busy, but as I sit here and look at the one on the bench behind me, I could see where it might be easier that way, altho I could still use my front drive setup for the dry sump, and fuel pump, may give me something to think about this winter, everything else is bolt on anyway. Bob

[DAD]

Bad

They just make an adapter for the flywheel side of motor with a new cover with hole and seal in it? What is hard for me to imagine is that little U-joint and drive shaft spinning at 14000 rpms between the drivers legs.

Honest Dad himself

[TQ29m]

Not everyone uses that little u-joint DAD, a lot of us use full midget/sprint car parts, no more dangerous than having that big old chain ready to chew your left cheek off! Holy crap man, take a breath, does everything bother you that you don't agree with? Sheesh, give it a rest, I for one, have had enough, now you have some of your people looking at the 305 class at Bloomington! Bob!

[badcoupe]

Yea it's the same as the Honda adapter, I had wayne make one for my gsxr motor that bolts right in where the Honda was same bolt pattern and crank gear for their firewall adapter. Now I just need to make a setup run a oil pump on it. I built it approx 8 years ago was almost finished when we sold our last car. I know on rons car the motor is about an inch higher to accommodate the oil pan

[DAD]

Bad

What do you do with the water pump? I would think that wet sump would work fine and clean up a lot of plumbing. The GSXR water pump is right behind the Flywheel cover in front of the counter sprocket. That would put it sticking through your engine plate. When we went trick and went to dry sump we drove the oil pump where the water pump was but then had to turn around and put on an electric water pump, same holds true with mechanical injection setups. In the old days they drove their pumps off of the camshafts with an adapter welded to the valve covers, but I think them GSXR's use Magnesium covers.

Honest Dad himself

PS. Sorry Bob

[badcoupe]

I never got that far was either gonna go electric or use one on my oil pump drive. This motor has the case cut and has to be dry sump. It's an 98 gsxr I had falicon build me a custom stroker crank for since we're allowed 700 by the rules. I started building it back in 03. By the time I got everything in and done I was getting ready to start on a drive system to run the oil pump etc and we sold out. It's been sitting all this time waiting. I wanna do a newer r6 motor now but I figured I might as well try this thing instead of letting it sit any longer. Plus I have a lot of money in the custom crank and Carrillo rods!

[DAD]

I bought a 1999 GSXR 600 with 300 miles on it back in 1999. Was putting it in the car when Yamaha came up with the R6. I took the GSXR out and put in in a box and set it on a shelf, best move I ever made. That R6 changed everybody's idea about 600cc motors back then. Kawasaki came along and made it Old School.

Best I can remember back then a lot of 600 and 750 GSXR part interchange I think they just changed the jugs.

Honest Dad himself

[Ken Bonnema]

I'll jump in here. I always have flags when I hear that someone wants to help me save money. Like the car dealership that will save me money this weekend by having me buy a car. The best best way I know to save money is not spend it. We Racers are historically very good with math but not so good with Arithmetic. On any given race weekend there are upwards of 50 T.Q.s between 3 groups (sadly) running in Indiana. Given the economy that's really a good sign that the class is pretty strong the way it is. Having followed the 600's in Calif, I can tell you that a built motor will outrun a stock one by 2 to 3/10's per lap which over a 20 lapper is Bye Bye. The amount of money spent to get that few tics is prohibitive but if you're in that class, ya gotta do it, 'cause MY kid is gonna race Jeff Gordon. If a bone stock 600 will outrun the ol' 750, then everyone will have to change over which DOES NOT save Money. Then along comes the guy (and he WILL come along) who has a built one and off we go. Right now, a race ready T.Q. can be had for around 4500. It won't win but you can make an A Main with it. Top cars are around 7500 and up. New motors will devalue these cars and they will sit, which is bad for the group as a whole and for sure, the guy with the old car. I was racing them when USAC brought the Focus in and my cars value was cut in half. I sold my Dennis Hart T.Q. with a Hart Motor and a Barnes dry sump for $4500.00. Be very careful here. YOUR cars value and the class are hanging in the balance.

[badcoupe]

I don't disagree but the Honda parts are high and becoming more scarce. The Honda is perfectly suited to these cars torque and power range wise. That's why these new motors seldom win but their cost efficiency and setup are only going to get better plus you can build one cheaper than a Honda these days. I love and build several Hondas for guys but their days are numbered I believe. I'll always no matter what have one ready to go in my car if I ever do actually switch. The 4 valve cars are faster at the end of the straight but can't overcome their lack of torque coming off to win on the small tracks we run. The big tracks they are great at. The guys that have them biggest gripes are the cost but they didn't have to make them close to the 700 limit, they could've tan them as stock 600 and been as fast as they are sleeved down or bored up in my opinion

[DAD]

Ken

You are on to something with the "My kid Syndrome".

TQ racers and for that matter even 1000cc Midget racers are populated by a different type of racer. The old 2 valve motors are getting harder to find all the time, and 4 valve motors are much different in design and construction. TQ racers now use a Full Midget drive train, and about everything else on his car is full size Midget except the frame and power plant. Why not go to a Midget frame. A guy once told me that the frame was the cheapest thing on a race car and I think he was right. So if your front axle and spindles are Midget, your rear end and drive shaft are midget, your shocks are Midget, your wheels are midget your tail tank is Midget and about everything else to include your engine parts like sump pumps and injectors are Midget, why mess with that cramped up little chassis?

Honest Dad himself