Daron, All,
I'll try to make this brief, but hopefully answer some Questions.
The way the helmet anchors are positioned on the helmet, and the geometry of the neck rotation are what allow you to tilt you head fwd. and touch you chin. The anchor position is designed to be a centerline in a couple directions. If you put your helmet on, and just pull you chin down, you will notice that the anchor position really doesn't move more than an inch or 2 because it is close to that hinge point of the neck and the base of the head. The position of the anchors is also designed to create a centerline that runs along the tethers, through the anchor point and to the area of where the forehead and the front of the helmet meet when at the peak load of a forward impact.
Another reason to not make the tethers to short, is that the 5-6" length gives the head a bit slower deceleration in a crash. Kind of like catching an egg in an egg toss game. You don't catch the egg with firm hands and arms. You let your hands and arms follow the eggs path as you catch it and slow it that way.
I hope the below link works. It shows how the Hans actually stays/grips the belts at time of impact. The tethers then tighten as the head starts to move forward, and the Hans position looks to be moving backwards, but in fact is not. When the tethers grab, they start the control of the forward motion and extension of the neck to slow everything down in that method.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0RinuSRqMaM&NR=1
The double belts are a good route to go as well. Everyone who I have talked with that have them, like them. BUT, correct belt mounting is even more critical with those. They are a little bit tougher to get set-up in the car, but once you have it, everyone seems to like them.
The standard 3" belts, as well 2" Hans Belts work fine as well, and if they are working well for a driver, then that is OK.
However, the double belts are an option to look at, not needed or required with the Hans...just a nice option for the reasons you mentioned Daron.
Schroth, Simpson, Impact are some that I know offer these. I haven't checked to see if Crow does now as well, but I'm guessing they might.
Next, if you do choose to use a sternum strap, you really need to be sure that it is low on your chest or close to, or lower than the base of the Hans. As you can see in the video, your body really moves forward on the belts. (And that is a hard plastic dummy that deforms less than a human, and the belts are tighter then any of us ever synch down ourselves). IF the strap is too high on your chest, you can see that the result would not be good to your neck. PLEASE CHECK THIS IF YOU RUN A STURNUM STRAP....PLEASE.
Daron is exactly right on getting your seat and chassis fitted when new. Or if buying a used chassis, make the needed changes to the rear A-Frame area to fit YOU AND YOUR SEAT before you send her out for powder coat.
We will have more tech info on IOW as fall and winter progress.
Ken Joyce
KRJ Race Products
ken@krjraceproducts.com