Mark

We are all waiting for Andy's report. That was a pretty good trick getting that many people together for a meeting. Must have been some super good food provided by Mr. Fortune is all I can figure.

I think we should have a pretty good turn out our banquet also because that BBQ of Mikes is pretty darned good.

Did "you guys" (North of Mason Dixon)>> "You All" (South of Mason Dixon) require checking of weapons at door.

I think Bill May might be getting a little carried away, But sure Glad I got that ankle gun.

Honest Dad himself

Jonesy

Better get started on locating a flywheel and stator for that old "boat mooring" device you are racing with. Parts for them are getting harder and harder to find every day.

I truly like the Tulsa rules, these guys are being inclusive with their rules. I can not think of any mini-sprint running anywhere in the USA that could not just load up and go racing with them. Isn't this exactly what we are striving for?

Sorry they do not include Division II midgets, "BUT" they do race Echotecs at the Shootout also.

Honest Dad himself

So.............. non-stock cams, head/valve work, raised compression, titanium rods, port work are all legal? All they are truly teching internally is bore and stroke?

I agree indoors on that track, non-winged, motor is not that important. Listen to anyone's video that has raced there.......hardly ever truly on the throttle. But for national rules on bigger outdoor tracks?? Tracks that can utilize whatever HP you can get out of the motor? Seriously?

Phil

I said their rules were almost perfect. Like a truly perfect country song they are missing a few things.

1. 925 pounds is OK for a stock internal motor with aftermarket carburetion of any kind (OK Andy). The better you mix the fuel and air, the better it works. The higher pressure in the electronic injection make the fuel atomize better than the mechanical type injectors. For aesthetics and the fiddle factor mechanical wins hands down. And yes when you blow a motor up it can be moved to your new motor. A one time expense and the mechanical pump is much more durable than some of those electric pumps people use.

2. If a racer wants to trick out his motor or run one of the big 1200 cc motors, let them but, I would feel more comfortable with a 100 pound handicap for anything other than stock internal 1000 cc motors.

IF 100 pounds doesn't do it add more weight. The trick is to make the racer that is wanting to spend money on his engine is at a disadvantage to stock the racers. Let them spend their money on chrome, and graphics and sticker tires and solvents for those tires etc.

We would already make the handy cap so perhaps we might want to do a little more to our engine, to make up for the handicap. LOL

3. I would love to get rid of gasoline as a race fuel. I would add at least a 25 pound handicap to the gasoline people to encourage them to switch away from that $15.00 a gallon burn in a vacuum fuel to plain old Methanol. Or if they were green to Ethanol, come to think of it they are both renewable and produce fewer pollutants than petro.

4. For safety I would like to see a rule that stipulates that if equipped with an electric pump. That the pump MUST turn off automatically when the engine stops with the switch on.

There may be other things that people find wrong with the Shootout rules but they sure have a nice short to the point template to start with.

Phil
I do have a very simple way of checking camshaft lift without removing the valve cover at the track. Probably a $25.00 piece. And that little 3/8 mpt plug ain't going to draw in any air or spit out any more oil than your average zx10r motor does at any race.

Honest Dad himself

Mc performance

This could be a deal for you. I have no desire to go into business. A guy with a screw machine or cnc lathe could spit these things out like popcorn You could make a little money and do us all, Dwarf cars, minisprints and SCCA racers a big favor.

If you are interested give me a call. Bill @ 1-502-778-6833

I take it you are indicating the cam lobe with a dial indicator secured to the top of the motor through a hole? Securing to the motor sufficiently would be the only problem. Plus..........you need to know the cam lift of every year of every legal motor. Or.....do what we did back here.........require the participant to have his spec sheet on his particular motor available for the tech man.

Phil

If we are trying to run stock internals we need to know the stock cam lift. The Kaw is found in the race manual, and I am sure the others publish them also. The problem with stock is always Numbers and specification. We want to make it simple for the tec guy and the racer. A rule that requires hours to perform is not worth a dime, we just won't do it, so let it be wide open.

We stated a long time ago that racers needed to be equipped a manual with specs. for their particular engine. Kaw has not changed cam design from 2004 until 2011 and boy did they change then, however to use the big cam you also need big lifters.

the kaw is a piece of cake to install the cam checker, suzuki and yamaha may require a little more work, but not much.

If anybody has an old scrap r1 or gsxr heads laying around I sure would like to get my hands on them to play with. I got all the Kaw's I'll ever need.

It isn't rocket science, just problem solving.

They don't leave any room for duration inside these motors so they have to do it with lift. Three or five or even twenty thousandth of an inch won't help but 60 sure will and that is an easy check. Don't go down that go-kart path and DQ people for .002 inch.

Honest Dad himself

Give me a call

I see several on eBay, in the $50.00-$125.00 range. I dunno, though; hafta figure out how to splice it back into the (drastically cut down) harness, and for one show a year? Maybe I'd be better off runnin the old geez(x)er till she blows and spring for an upgrade like Pat Mead's doing this winter; anybody ever put an Ecotec in a Doemelt?

Jonesy

Keep the darned thing in there. It won't slow you down and you can forget about the battery charger all the time. It will probably save you skin on one of these long yellow flag races. Trust me.

Wiring is a piece of cake, don't even need your regular wiring harness. I could probably come up with a schematic. Get a regulator also.

Ecotec no problem need a motor plate and drive line.

Honest Dad himself

Guess I'm "Jonesy" now - so be it then, it's a priviledge to be acknowledged by Ol' Dad...
Well, I tell you what; let's see how I do at Montpelier next year, and if Wally (my GSXR) is still alive and I get the itch to go to Tulsa I'll figure the alternator out. And if I can't I'm sure I'll get all the help and advice I need right here...
The Ecotec comment was a joke. Maybe.