Jason
I think your settings are correct, like everything they could be fine tuned, however I've seen the car run before at those settings.
I would look for something out of the ordinary, the first place I would look is the tank vent. I have seen guys chase fuel problems and forget about the importance of the vent.
If I'm reading this right you are okay on start up but it acts up after running some laps (tank vent)
If that is okay then look for something real stupid like drive spud bolt broken where it looks okay but under power it spins freely.
Have you re-routed return lines? if you have your main by-pass in front of your high speed it cannot go anywhere after it pops off, so check routing as someone else here suggested.
Keep us informed
Jeff Palazzolo

tape the radiator to get some heat in it. dont rely on fuel settings to get the temp where you want it cause it sounds like that a different problem altogether.
check the oil.....does it stink like alky and look milky or is it clean and brown?
barrel valve seems a little high but i dont think, unless you are trying to idle it without closing the fuel valve a little, it shouldnt matter at this point.

does it start out running strong and then get worse or is it just running out of power at the end, or run like crap all the way up the power band?
if it is just running out of power at the end, try taking the high speed setting up to the 70-75 range and take some gear out.....it might be opening too early and causing the motor to fall on its face and/or too much gear and it is running itself over the power band and dying.

i think i would also take the tank off, drain it, wash it out real good and then go front to back thru all the lines and make sure there is nothing hiding that is causing a fuel flow problem on top end (get the pump checked too or borrow a known good one)

and all of this is assuming the the valve springs and lash are correct and you dont have worn out or cracked springs. and you have fresh plugs in the motor.
any changes you make, dont go out and run 30 hard laps.....run a couple laps and if it feels better, bring it back in and check the plugs to be sure you didnt go too rich or lean.

also.....be careful taping the radiator.....temps can come up real quick!
dont over do it!
good luck

Thanks everyone. Will be pluggin away this week. Plans are to be out at Rockford Speedway Thursday night for test and tune. Always welcome any help can get. Will do what I can.

Radiator's taped. At 50 deg and just an oil tank warmer. I don't think anything is going to get much water temp in just 6-8 laps.

It's a Waterman fuel pump. 3 lines off it. Low & high go back together with a T. Pill on it's own.

Thank-you.

Jason, also check the fuel pickup in the tank. We had an on going problem when we were running our focus midget that caused us issues all season. The guy we sold it to finally figured out the pickup was sucking up the bladder. He fixed that and it ran great. Figures
Dan Chady lol

Sounds like c47 had a fuel issue on his own midget at one point! ;-)
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sure did......learned a lot of things that DONT work.....

I think I ask this before, but what/who's, hi-speed bypass you using. We fought one, one summer, that would ck good, and run good for a few laps, then it would go bananas, and run real crazy, and you couldn't get any kind of idle out of it at all, it'd run off, then get real rich, you could start the car, pull in the pits, and remove the tank cap, and sometimes the hi-speed by pass wouldn't be doing anything, as it should be, then the engine would go to high idle, and the hi-speed would be dumping in the tank, at whatever pressure you had it set at. I tried all sorts of things to get it to stay adjusted, but nothing worked, I "coined" the seat, even went in with a center cutting end mill, and just made a fresh seat in it, and nothing worked, except a brass bodied one, and it wasn't real good, so I went to a Kinsler diaphram type, with the pill in it, to keep it from dropping off pressure too fast, and it's been working OK. Just some more ammo! Bob

Without seeing and hearing whats really going on.......
-Valve springs can check good when cold but go soft when the engine is fully warmed up
-main pill holder put inline facing the wrong way so no fuel is being returned on the main circuit. This also holds true for the high speed and secondary.
-Hairline crack in any fittings on the suction side of the pump, mixing air with the fuel before the pump is very bad. Look especially close to the bulkhead fitting that passes between the tank shell and the bladder.
-Have the pump tested. If its down at all the longer you run the engine the more it will fall off because of heat building in the pump

That should get you started

good point about air leaks.....especially at high speed/pressure

I had something stupid happen to me one time and it took awhile before I figured it out. I had run my fuel line through the cockpit along the bottom frame rail. It ran right next to the throttle pedal. Well, apparantly it moved over time and everytime I raced, the motor would fall flat after 3-4 laps. I was actually pinching the fuel line with the pedal. The more I pushed on it to go the worse it ran. Get back in the pits and check it out and was always fine then. Ran new hose and re-routed it just a bit.

I hope you find the problem. I know what a headache it can be.