Take top of air box off. Make sure when the key comes on, that the stacks move all way down against throttle bodies...should be no slack in any-one of them...engine is really dead when they don't work properly

Andrew if you know Sean Barnett you might also ask him about the new intake on his car. He has changed from a Rosson to a Performance Fab High Velocity Intake and can answer any questions as to how the two compare.

For you guys having oiling problems with your ZX10 motors heres an interesting thread. http://dsrforum.yuku.com/topic/10175...g#.UzzAT_ldXMo

If Ron say it so on an R1 better listen to him.

Mac thanks for the heads up. We tried the holes in the breather baffle a few years ago and it may have helped a little. This last time we tried what Phil in Kansas did with a new twist. The Kaws have several things working aganist them. They have so much pressure in the combustion chamber at high rpm and horsepower situations that they cause the cylinder bore to go out of round creating a lot of blow by. The breather for the crankcase is vented inside the clutch chamber. In a hard 1g + turn the oil in the pan reaches 45+ degree angle on the right side of the crankcase. Since the breather pick up in behind the clutch basket it tends to be picked up by the clutch and the oil is pumped up into breather box. The outlet of the breather box travels down a small 5/16" passage to the crankcase. The stock pan continues this passage down to the oil pump pick up where it is supposed to be pulled back into the pump. I think Rosson finally picked up on this in one of my post on Apex speed. If that passage is not piped back to the pump the blow by pressure in the crankcase will not let the oil drain back to the pan. So now if you vent off of the crankcase breather box only we got oil pumped up by the clutch basket into the breather and vapor being blown up that small passage in the back of the block into our breather and close to a 1/2 quart or more of valuable oil stuck up in your breather box starving your engine of oil and messing up your pretty new driving shoes. None of that is good.

If any body be interested in our fix?? We didn't blow a drop of oil at DuQuoin>>Call Me.

Honest Dad himself

Water will turn the opposite way to you guys. Simpson's did it years ago.

Spent hours looking for a TRE (timing retard Eliminator). They don't have them for Yamaha.

Andrew

I guess that makes one of us backwards. I always wondered how that would effect intake porting and combustion chamber design?

Honest Dad himself

Andrew, Suggest you have a Red Bull before each race. You will be that pumped, you won't miss the start. LOL

Hi everyone
Is there a kit to get rid of the drive by wire system?
Has anyone used the variable velocity stacks that are on the r1 originally?
Thanks
Andrew

It was a clutching not a shifting incident

Andy

All I know is I looked up and Doug was doing cart wheels 10 feet up off of the race track over your head. That little R1 had soo much torque he broke the chain in 3 places.. We always just shift gears and don't mess with the clutch once under way. I guess the clutch thing is more like drag racing huh, Hold the throttle down and slip the clutch til about 12000 rpms or so>>then BANG drop the clutch..>>that would be what the drag racers call the "LAUNCH"

We don't mess too much with R-1's But computers are fooled all the time. I would bet if you could and you probably can install some old pre drive by wire injector bodies it would work just fine.. One of the problems with the r1 is it has a very short stroke and thus less torque, but as you spin it up the HP takes over.

Honest Dad himself

The fly by wire isn't your problem. All the late model stuff running 2 butterfly's are fly by wire, it helps the torque on those quite a bit.