[Bradleyracing86]

How about the left one?

[Wayne Davis]

Originally Posted by openwheel44 Mark and I have debated the tech procedure of gasoline. Yes........a can of worms. Maybe not a feasible solution but we thought about simply stating......buy your gas at a designated gas station close to the track. We could test and compare somewhat then. If you think your gas is close to what that tests.......knock yourself out and good luck. At this point...........we don't have very many "gas guys" racing around here so it hasn't been a big issue............yet. Hoping this meeting will get us all some "direction" on how to deal with this issue also. Not a tire expert but..................does soaking or treating a spec tire soften it significantly? If so, how much is a good rule of thumb a Hoosier SP2 can be brought down to as compared to it's starting point???? My Go Kart buddy has been trying to enlighten me somewhat to all the crap that goes on with tire treatments. All this info makes my brain hurt. If I has educated me on one thing..........it's Go Kart guys that run asphalt usually have one hell of a tire bill. Oh.........I see where you can buy those race ready Ecotecs, race ready all day for $10,000. Couple that with a quick change/torquetube/ball setup and start looking at the overall price then. Plus.......push trucks. The promoters we have dealt with preferred race cars with starters. Ecotec style cars defeat that purpose. To be clear.....I have nothing against Ecotecs. I wish them better luck than the Ford Focus deal went though......... If you are going to go that route.........open up your rules to 1400+cc motors and compensate with weight if you have to.

SP2 will durometor 40 - 42/43 ...the last 2 years I checked evey tire that I had or sold and not (1) was under 40...we are talking over 100 tires so as per my rules it's 40 (BEFORE) a race or quailifing...39 you are done period!!! (that tire)...you do not want to go down the tire prepping route....what drove me out of karting....800.00 per state race....crazy!!

2012 midgets around all day for 8-10K...add a $500/$900 STOCK long block then your bolt on stuff..fuel pump..injectors...electronics....bell housing....close to $13-14K...all have starters and clutches...no need for push trucks....189 HP...cut the head maybe 196... Price to rebuild $168.00...just did it...

when ROUSH took over that deal it went down hill...12K for a motor....somebody was making $$$$$....then again WHO'S fault was it???? USAC cause they needed to make X amount at the racers expenice...

Weight...935 "STOCK" 1000cc .... 1000lbs. STOCK 1200cc....1125lbs. STOCK 2.0-2.4...Ford/Chevy/Honda/Quad 4...it is a win win for everyone....

sub...if a picticular combo starts to dominate 4 or more wins in a row...slow'm down with a harder RR or add weight...see how easy that is...

NONE OF THIS IS POSSIBLE WITHOUT TECH.....BY THE BOOK IN BLACK AND WHITE...NO MATTER WHO IS GETTING TECHED

[DAD]

Originally Posted by Bradleyracing86 How about the left one?

A>S>A>P>! As soft as possible. Don't know about you guys but we drive off of the left rear.

Honest Dad himself

[DAD]

Originally Posted by Wayne Davis SP2 will durometor 40 - 42/43 ...the last 2 years I checked evey tire that I had or sold and not (1) was under 40...we are talking over 100 tires so as per my rules it's 40 (BEFORE) a race or quailifing...39 you are done period!!! (that tire)...you do not want to go down the tire prepping route....what drove me out of karting....800.00 per state race....crazy!! 2012 midgets around all day for 8-10K...add a $500/$900 STOCK long block then your bolt on stuff..fuel pump..injectors...electronics....bell housing....close to $13-14K...all have starters and clutches...no need for push trucks....189 HP...cut the head maybe 196... Price to rebuild $168.00...just did it... when ROUSH took over that deal it went down hill...12K for a motor....somebody was making $$$$$....then again WHO'S fault was it???? USAC cause they needed to make X amount at the racers expenice... Weight...935 "STOCK" 1000cc .... 1000lbs. STOCK 1200cc....1125lbs. STOCK 2.0-2.4...Ford/Chevy/Honda/Quad 4...it is a win win for everyone.... sub...if a picticular combo starts to dominate 4 or more wins in a row...slow'm down with a harder RR or add weight...see how easy that is... NONE OF THIS IS POSSIBLE WITHOUT TECH.....BY THE BOOK IN BLACK AND WHITE...NO MATTER WHO IS GETTING TECHED

You are a classy guy Wayne, I like your style! Just think of all them names we called one another> (under our breath of course)

Honest Dad himself

[DAD]

Since we have had so much problem with Cycle motors lately, It might be a good idea to buy one of AJ's older midgets and then build an Echo tec for it. Should be able to get a good deal from Tim on an injection set up, I can build the headers and all we would need would be a clutch deal to go racing.

I got $600.00 in that dry sump pump and built the tank, It wasn't the dry sumps fault it was a couple of main bearing bores in the blocks that went out of round and dropped our oil pressure.

It is a Kawasaki thing you just would not understand!

Next problem is finding some place to race,

Brian? got that garage located yet?

Bill? Jerry? either one of you guys open to a very fast experimental car?

PAPA OUTLAW? how far is it to the Bull Ring from Louisvile KY?

Phil? Got any room out west for different type of Eco Lite Sprint?

Honest Dad himself

[openwheel44]

The only reason I brought up the tire prep deal is because I think we all know..........it is probably being utilized by a few. Maybe a hell of a lot more than a "few." But the way I look at it, even if you have a spec tire rule..........durometer check is a must unless you have an "open tire" rule. Just because a racer has a tire that says it's one thing.......it might durometer something completely different due to treatments. To be honest......our group back this way runs an open tire. Couldn't get Hoosier or American Racer to kick in enough to make it worth mandating their tire. Plus.....we haven't seen any big advantage since everyone is either running a Hoosier 12, 15, SP2 or American Racer 33 or 38. Quite a few of our guys have went the American Racer route simply due to price. Anyway.........seems a durometer reading as you COME OFF the track would solve some of the tire issues??? However.......I realize some groups depend on a tire manufacturer supporting them financially in some way.

[DAD]

Originally Posted by openwheel44 The only reason I brought up the tire prep deal is because I think we all know..........it is probably being utilized by a few. Maybe a hell of a lot more than a "few." But the way I look at it, even if you have a spec tire rule..........durometer check is a must unless you have an "open tire" rule. Just because a racer has a tire that says it's one thing.......it might durometer something completely different due to treatments. To be honest......our group back this way runs an open tire. Couldn't get Hoosier or American Racer to kick in enough to make it worth mandating their tire. Plus.....we haven't seen any big advantage since everyone is either running a Hoosier 12, 15, SP2 or American Racer 33 or 38. Quite a few of our guys have went the American Racer route simply due to price. Anyway.........seems a durometer reading as you COME OFF the track would solve some of the tire issues??? However.......I realize some groups depend on a tire manufacturer supporting them financially in some way.

If you can get a good deal on tires for the racer do it. Ask the American racer guy what kind of deal he can give you on 10 maybe 20 tires. Each one of them guys is a dealer try shopping another one for price also some of them want to sell more tires than others.

I would probably set a checking pressure also. Maybe 15 or 20 psi. Those big old wide tires will check different in the middle at low tire pressure's.

Honest Dad himself

[Cadpro18]

Originally Posted by DAD A>S>A>P>! As soft as possible. Don't know about you guys but we drive off of the left rear. Honest Dad himself

We had that problem, but we fixed it... now we drive off both.

[DAD]

Originally Posted by Cadpro18 We had that problem, but we fixed it... now we drive off both.

We are working toward that end but being hill billy's we are a little slow. Maybe in another couple of years.

Honest Dad himself

[Wayne Davis]

Originally Posted by DAD If you can get a good deal on tires for the racer do it. Ask the American racer guy what kind of deal he can give you on 10 maybe 20 tires. Each one of them guys is a dealer try shopping another one for price also some of them want to sell more tires than others. I would probably set a checking pressure also. Maybe 15 or 20 psi. Those big old wide tires will check different in the middle at low tire pressure's. Honest Dad himself

I am a Hoosier dealer for the series but I DO NOT mandate you have to run Hoosiers....Everyone gets the tires at cost...I give Connie a call and they order whatever tire they need...but if you want the contengenciey $$ for a race you have to have hoosiers on all 4 corners,,,American Racers are a better deal $$$ wise but but they wanted to mandate EVERYONE on AR and I feel not to mandate what tire a racer choices to run as long as the RR is 40 on the durometor...not 39.9