[TQ29m]

In days of old, many a manufacturer of automobiles, horseless carriages if you will, used this same system, however, they used a tapered pin, with a nut on one end, that pulled it thru the eye in the axle, and kept the pingpins not only tight, but kept them from turning, which is all the allens can do, keep them from turning, they are known as a push fit clearance, and unless they get really wiggely, it has the advantage of allowing you to remove them with little effort, not like the cars of old, that when it came time to replace king pin bushings, you might just as well remove the axle and replace it also, the marriage was forever. If it gets too bad, you could remove them, and knurl them where they rest in the eye, but that would mean doing it before they were hardened, assuming they are hardened to begin with. BTW, if you are thinking about the tapered pin option, Snapper mowers have them in their rear axle, about a 5/16 hole I believe. Bob

[DAD]

Originally Posted by TQ29m In days of old, many a manufacturer of automobiles, horseless carriages if you will, used this same system, however, they used a tapered pin, with a nut on one end, that pulled it thru the eye in the axle, and kept the pingpins not only tight, but kept them from turning, which is all the allens can do, keep them from turning, they are known as a push fit clearance, and unless they get really wiggely, it has the advantage of allowing you to remove them with little effort, not like the cars of old, that when it came time to replace king pin bushings, you might just as well remove the axle and replace it also, the marriage was forever. If it gets too bad, you could remove them, and knurl them where they rest in the eye, but that would mean doing it before they were hardened, assuming they are hardened to begin with. BTW, if you are thinking about the tapered pin option, Snapper mowers have them in their rear axle, about a 5/16 hole I believe. Bob

Bob

I think the English called them cotter pins. They can also be found in the cranks of many bicycles.

It would require a mill to drill the cotter pin hole offset and tangent to the king pin hole. We did that on AJ's first mini sprint. It worked pretty good. The big problem was that Floyd used caged needle bearings in the spindles, and then used a piece of cold roll for the King Pin. They were just a little undersized to start with and the cold roll was so soft the cotter Pin would just keep on pulling through the hole. The same problem existed with the needle bearings they were just a little oversize to start with and just kept getting looser.http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/121262229952?lpid=82

They worked fine with the 600cc cars and small tracks but when the 1000cc cars and larger tracks started showing up they got just a little weak. I think Floyd makes a bigger spindle now but I am not sure.

Honest Dad himself

[PatrickMead#13]

Gonna jump on the issue Saturday and see what I can come up with. I am installing new bearings in the spindles and reworking the set screw deal a small amount by making a locking plate so the screws can't turn. If all else fails, I took your advice and just picked up some 1/2x3/8 steel tube for spacers to install my midget axle just in case. Gotta love home depot.......lol

[KYRON]

Bailey does not send enough thin shims to remove all the up/down (thrust) motion. Be sure to get the thrust part tight. When the thrust part is loose, it will hammer out and get loose quickly. We had to order .002 thrust shims to fix this problem.