After looking and hearing, it seems to be for our thin wall tubing the preferred benders clamp the tube and then pull it around the die.
Is this considered the best way to not wrinkle the tube?

To a point. There is a minimum wall thickness that you can bend with these style benders, which depends on the tube size and die radius. The bender manufacturer will provide this information. Trying to bend thinner than the min wall thickness will result in kinking or wrinkles.

To bend really thin wall stuff, like header tubing, you need a mandrel bender to do it right (by supporting the inside of the tube), and you're looking at a huge investment, which is why most shops don't have them.

The JD2 recommends, for most bends, .049 up wall thickness, which will cover most anything encountered in racing applications, I've bent some .049, with a 3" radius, and no deformity noticed, a good lubricant will help a lot, like chain lube. I also have a Parker, hand bender, that I use a lot for nerf bars and front bumpers, it has a gear rachet that helps pull the tube around the die, with a roller on it to keep from scratching the piece. Bob

Hell, just step off the edge and spend the bucks and buy a Tube Shark or a Ercolina bender. They're both top quality and produce great results because of their excellent dies & shoes....it's all about the dies & shoes.....beautiful one shot 180 degree bends. Both are easy to use and super versatile. Used a bunch of Hossfeld's and JD2's, both make good units....but...Go for the Gusto !!

I didn't quite go for the gusto but did find a good price on a Hossfeld with a few dies. Still have a few more dies I will have to make but looking forward to making some parts.

Thanks all for the input!

Congrats! Don't you just love new tool acquisitons! :2: Did you get a manual or a power assisted unit? Enjoy your new toy!