We buy it by the case, as far as being expensive, it is a whole lot cheaper than a new motor. This is a little off topic but go to harleydavidsontechforum check out the oil section then read about temps. and oil breakdown.

We use one in the filter one in the pan and I think seven in the tank. Always put oil in the filter so as to not suck the inner filter closed. (J.M.O.)

Jerry #66

Crisco.
Swap it every 75-100 laps.
David.

Disclaimer***
I am totally joking. PLEASE do not put Crisco in your race car.

Lucas oil 20/50 now. Rotella 15w40 prior.

There are several good oils on the market, IMO. What is MOST important, and something I have not heard discussed here yet, is what engine you are talking about, and what the builder's reccomendaton is regarding viscosity. I know that most of the Sprint and Midget motors being built today still call for fairly heavy oils, but as manufacturing gets tighter and specifications get updated you will see lighter and lighter oils. It is important to match the weight of the oil you are using with the type of engine you have, the best oil in the world will destroy your engine if it's too light. Or too heavy.

As far as brands, I have to agree with Leaders Edge just about right down the line. AliSyn is the best I've ever tested, followed very, very closely by Royal Purple, and Lucas. Surprisingly, for the motors we do, good 'ol Mobil 1 synthetic right off the shelf from Pep boys was also not bad at all. This opinion is based upon dyno work where RPM, Oil temp. and power were monitored, along with imperical evidence based on tear-downs.

Bottom line - just in my opinion - there are several good oils on the market. Make sure you use ONE OF THEM.

One more thing - if you are running mechanical injection with methanol (I assume you are) then you have to change your oil along the lines of what others are saying here. Just a fact of life....

This is the first year I ran Lucas. I just talked to my engine builder this morning and he said my bearings still look brand new. This is on a 405 ci engine, Dart block with Brodex heads, with 25 nights on it. I have used Valvoline in the past and had some failures (can't say they were the fault of the oil) but we got hooked up with Lucas and have been happy. We get ours by the case and I change it every two to three nights depending on laps and track size.

I had one of my engineers in Houston last week visiting Royal Purple. They had a demonstration on thier product against other major brands and he came away very impressed. The oils tested were for diesel engines (my line of work). I don't think you could go wrong with them as well.

Schaeffer's #191 Micron Moly Racing Oil SAE 20W-50. Changed every two nights, oil analysis dictated that we could have run up to 4 or 5 nights.

Schaeffer's #293 Supreme Synthetic Plus Rear End Lubricant, SAE 75W-90. Changed every time we changed gears, but could have gone much longer.

Schaeffer's #238 Grease for torsion bars and bearings.

Schaeffer's #190 Penetro penetrating oil for everything else.

Schaeffer's is great stuff! We were very satisfied by its performance through the season.

As #66 said, changing oil is a lot less expensive than changing an engine. Our teams like to think of the oil/filter changes as cheap insurance!

I have heard teams using Lucas oils and some using the Joe Gibbs synthetic oils.
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I use Brad Penn 50 wt. had lots of success and no changes planned in the future !

Our engine builder highly recommends Lubrication Engineers (also known as LE) we use straight 50w oil. He said if we use Valvoline to change it every race and if we used LE to change it every 3 races. I think the stuff is around $170 or more for a case. As previously stated, good oil and changed often is way less expensive than part failure or part wear.