Looking to work out a deal with anyone that knows anything about working on midget racecars.* #56 has been plagued by issues for months (maybe even longer).**Not trying to do anything over the computer or phone at this time.**Apparently I need someone to hold my hand!* Wouldn't expect help for nothing.* Please contact me asap with any interest.* Willing to work out a deal, up to including me not driving for a race*or something.* If we can make progress today, maybe can fire off Sat AM in town and then head to Macon*4 POWRi race???* 815 494-6002 (will be out in shop and not on computer).* Thanks!*

Ok, how about this...I'm checking checking fuel nozzles (again), drive spud engagement (again), flow rates (again), and rating valve springs (again) I guess...(def of insanity???). I'll have a baseline set-up on, so if anyone WANTS to at least be around Saturday morning, hopefully we could fire off around the Rockford area and make a plan from there. It's an exercise of futility for me on my own (or with anyone without midget racing experience). Gotta start somewhere....

hi-speed..s valve stuck open?or maybe the famous fuel filter in backwards....I've done all myself...good luck

I tried to help, just too far away. :-)

Jason
What are the symptoms?
It sounds like you are chasing fuel problems.
I know at Tulsa you were thinking ignition.
What have you done differently, if anything?
Jeff Palazzolo

Got any idea what your pressures, and percentage's are as you're attempting to start it now? Hilborn will give you some starting setups, or if you'll give out some settings as they are now, maybe we can be of help, FI is pretty simple to diagnose, but some help is required, to help diagnose. Some real numbers would be great. Bob

Timing is at 34 deg before TDC

Did have that problem like it was running out of power last fall, but found and changed bad drive spud before Ft Wayne. It seemed to run fine on that shorter track.

Paul Kreuger gave me a deal on a newer mag after Tulsa (in addition to not starting on Saturday, seemed to fade away in the other races on prelim night) and we put that it before this last practice (tow days ago).

At first Thursday (two days ago) it would not run well at all. Went around about 3 laps and took it out of gear concerned about the mag placement. Engine seemed to run well for a moment then, but I could not keep it running. It was approx 50 deg and the car had been in shop and oil was warm. I do not think it was because of weather.

Drained out the fuel (mixture of what was bought at Ft Wayne and Tulsa) and put in some about 4.5 gallons I got from another unsealed source. Started off running like a champ! Thought we'd be good to go. Was punching throttle down straight, but backed off early as car wasn't set-up for pavement. Ran 6-8 laps and thought should check things over before anything harder. Started to kinda pussyfoot it around more. Can't believe it would just load up on me, but something went awire? There still was not any temp in the water or anything, but at least the engine should have started to get warm. Decided to add another 3.5 gal of "unsealed" fuel; thinking that although the pick-up is fully submerged, maybe I had some issue there.

Unfortunately, with everything going on had a drive-shaft issue/torque tube issue and wasnt' able to check with full fuel load. Need to re-check all that and re-square in addition to engine problems.

Just been an exercise in frustration for me lately. Have had to emotionally remove myself in order to avoid getting really upset. Basically at a lose at this point. Hate to keep rechecking and checking the same things. If not for the above mentioned concerns and thoughts, I'd almost give up and pull the engine. Still want to try to get it up to good temp with - what is supposed to be - fresh fuel (and with drive-shaft secure!). Want to do a leak down with water 180-200 deg. Otherwise, will be checking fuel nozzles (again), drive spud engagement (good), and rating valve springs I guess...now can check everything else thanks many have suggested too...

Here in Machesney Park, IL (90 miles West of Chicago). Pretty much a one-man-band on this project. Intend to have ready by Thursday for practice at Rockford Speedway.

Well the first thing i would do is google kinsler fuel injection. If you dont have there bible you need to grt it. I'm pretty sure they have it online now. They are easy to talk to and they sort of wrote the book in fuel injection.
I havent heard anything about barrel valves yet they get out of wack pretty quick. Probably fuel fouled plugs by now get a torch and using very small flame try to get down inside and heat them up. Good luck

High speed 67
Low speed 22
Barrell 14

Sure everyone has a different idea, but I really do not think changing these %s 5-10% is causing my problems???

Another piece of info, what size pump, zero or double zero? How many lines off the pump, and how are they routed? From what you have here, the hi-speed seems way high, and idle bypass seems low, and barrel valve is on the hi side, from what I see here, your oil ought to milk up, just almost immediately. This might explain why you don't get any heat in it. If you haven't already, I'd log on to Hilborn, they have an on line setup for plumbing, under "tech", which will explain a few things. With out knowing what size pump, whose hi-speed you have, makes it difficult, but with a OO pump, I'd suggest a starting set up of 48psi on the hi-speed, 28psi on the idle bypass, 8-10% on the barrel valve, and run the idle bypass to a fuel block, with the hi-speed, and a line from there, to the tank, that takes any feedback, and backpressure out of the idle bypass. To set the barrel valve, back off the idle on the shutters, set 2 of them on .002 shim stock, remove the lines from the nozzles, and remove the plug from the bottom of the valve, and plug the idle bypass, then set the percentage of leak, with the link between the valve,and the throttle shaft. Now, hook everything back up, and give it a try. While you're setting the barrel valve, you can make sure it is installed correctly, by opening the throttle, after you remove the .002 shims, if the percentage moves up, then drops off, it is rotating the right direction. These numbers should get it running, at least, the fine tuning will come later. Good luck! Bob