ride height

diana · 7/4/13, 12:33 AM

Hello ,
Can anyone out there tell me the procedure for setting ride heights
I am using 21/2 blocks in the front and 23/4 left rear 23/8 right rear
I put the blocks between the axle and the bottom rail , loosen off the torsion stop bolt until it just touches
After I do this to the four corners I check my ride height not sure if this is right but I measure from the ground up to the bottom of the frame rail
Now if this is correct my ride height is to tall and I have to start turning torsion adjuster bolt to try and lower the car but it is already as low as I can get it
Plus how and when do I start adjusting corner weights I have heard you should have 100 lbs more in the left front than the right front and the back should be close to equal.
Bailey chassis. Any help would sure be helpful. Hope to hear from someone who knows mini sprint setup
Thank you

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jasonwess · 7/4/13, 7:08 AM

have you tried calling bailey, they will help you out. I don't think measuring to the ground Is not an accurate way of setting your car up, there are too many variables springs, tire size, pressure. I have always blocked my car and then from their fine-tuned it depending on conditions

diana · 7/4/13, 6:35 PM

on the ground I mean the garage floor. What do you do first
A step by step procedure would help me a lot
Thank you

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DAD · 7/4/13, 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by diana

on the ground I mean the garage floor. What do you do first
A step by step procedure would help me a lot
Thank you

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Steve smith has a great book out on mini sprint set up. That more than anything else will get you pointed in the right direction.

We use blocks to get our baseline set up before every race, they also set the ride height to start out with (can't do both). From there we adjust the car with our t-bar stops and front spring nuts to move the weight around and to adjust for track conditions. Loose for hot laps and tighter as the track goes from tacky to slick.

Mike Dicey over at "HYPER RACING" also wrote some pretty good stuff on chassis set up.

Honest Dad himself

diana · 7/5/13, 12:52 AM

what corner weight numbers do you look for

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diana · 7/5/13, 2:04 AM

our driver is 270 lbs.We run Suzuki 1000c.c.Bailey chassis and we call our class Lightning Sprints
Because of our weight issue it was suggested we run 2 1/2" blocking in the front and
2 3/4" - 2 3/8" in the rear. So when we block with these size blocks it will set our ride heights.Now we want to fine tune corner weights We start adjusting the torsion stops
and we find out our ride heights are shot. Also when we block we turn the torsion stop till it just touches and lock it down. At this point we can only increase our turns and are not able to subtract any turns.
Very unclear on this point and sure could use some help. I had thought that a web site like this would have tons of people offering advice. I need to set the car up tomorrow, for Saturday race.
Please help.
Thank you

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atmosports · 7/5/13, 2:20 AM

When you block the car, you need to make sure when you put the torsion stops on the torsion bars that the torsion stop screws(Bolts) are far enough through the torsion stops so you can add/subtract turns if needed. I generally run with about 1/8-1/4" of thread out the bottom of the stop(Going from memory as car is in bits), you may need to move the torsion stops one spline on the torsion bars to get them to go back on with the extra thread sticking out the bottom.

I generally don't worry too much with ride heights(On dirt anyway). Basically just start with whatever size blocks the manufacturer recommends. With a heavier driver I'd set the rear blocks 1/8-1/4" shorter than recommended(if it says 3" then run 2 3/4"), this will help keep the rear at the intended height with the heavier driver or else run one step heavier torsion bars in the rear(instead of 0.800" run 0.825")

Adjusting for corner weights,cross weight etc will screw the ride heights unless you start add or taking out turns on the opposite corner etc. As above get the Steve Smith book it should be helpful, I know the Midget one is.

Otherwise I know it's a different chassis but check out Hyperracing.com, the Hyper chassis website has a wealth of setup/preparation advice & instructions which I'm sure if you spend some time reading will hopefully answer some of your questions & help sterr you in the right direction.

diana · 7/5/13, 3:03 AM

Well there you go, a gentleman and a scholar.
Thank you very much , I will screw the adjuster bolt farther in and will be able to subtract and add turns
Diana

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diana · 7/5/13, 3:05 AM

if you have any other setup tricks I sure would enjoy reading them.
Again thanks,
Diana

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jjones752 · 7/5/13, 8:04 AM

Once you have adjusted the torsion stop bolts, when you go to do your blocking turn the bolts on the STOP until the ARM touches on the opposite side and lock it down; then you should have the ability to adjust either way. Jacking in weight is going to change your ride height, but it shouldn't be so drastic that it makes the car undriveable.

7/4/13, 12:33 AM	#1 ride height
diana Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 58	Hello , Can anyone out there tell me the procedure for setting ride heights I am using 21/2 blocks in the front and 23/4 left rear 23/8 right rear I put the blocks between the axle and the bottom rail , loosen off the torsion stop bolt until it just touches After I do this to the four corners I check my ride height not sure if this is right but I measure from the ground up to the bottom of the frame rail Now if this is correct my ride height is to tall and I have to start turning torsion adjuster bolt to try and lower the car but it is already as low as I can get it Plus how and when do I start adjusting corner weights I have heard you should have 100 lbs more in the left front than the right front and the back should be close to equal. Bailey chassis. Any help would sure be helpful. Hope to hear from someone who knows mini sprint setup Thank you Posted via Mobile Device

7/4/13, 7:08 AM	#2 Re: ride height
jasonwess Member Join Date: Feb 2013 Posts: 15	have you tried calling bailey, they will help you out. I don't think measuring to the ground Is not an accurate way of setting your car up, there are too many variables springs, tire size, pressure. I have always blocked my car and then from their fine-tuned it depending on conditions

7/4/13, 6:35 PM	#3 Re: ride height
diana Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 58	on the ground I mean the garage floor. What do you do first A step by step procedure would help me a lot Thank you Posted via Mobile Device

7/5/13, 12:52 AM	#5 Re: ride height
diana Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 58	what corner weight numbers do you look for Posted via Mobile Device

7/5/13, 2:04 AM	#6 Re: ride height
diana Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 58	our driver is 270 lbs.We run Suzuki 1000c.c.Bailey chassis and we call our class Lightning Sprints Because of our weight issue it was suggested we run 2 1/2" blocking in the front and 2 3/4" - 2 3/8" in the rear. So when we block with these size blocks it will set our ride heights.Now we want to fine tune corner weights We start adjusting the torsion stops and we find out our ride heights are shot. Also when we block we turn the torsion stop till it just touches and lock it down. At this point we can only increase our turns and are not able to subtract any turns. Very unclear on this point and sure could use some help. I had thought that a web site like this would have tons of people offering advice. I need to set the car up tomorrow, for Saturday race. Please help. Thank you Posted via Mobile Device

7/5/13, 2:20 AM	#7 Re: ride height
atmosports Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Posts: 2	When you block the car, you need to make sure when you put the torsion stops on the torsion bars that the torsion stop screws(Bolts) are far enough through the torsion stops so you can add/subtract turns if needed. I generally run with about 1/8-1/4" of thread out the bottom of the stop(Going from memory as car is in bits), you may need to move the torsion stops one spline on the torsion bars to get them to go back on with the extra thread sticking out the bottom. I generally don't worry too much with ride heights(On dirt anyway). Basically just start with whatever size blocks the manufacturer recommends. With a heavier driver I'd set the rear blocks 1/8-1/4" shorter than recommended(if it says 3" then run 2 3/4"), this will help keep the rear at the intended height with the heavier driver or else run one step heavier torsion bars in the rear(instead of 0.800" run 0.825") Adjusting for corner weights,cross weight etc will screw the ride heights unless you start add or taking out turns on the opposite corner etc. As above get the Steve Smith book it should be helpful, I know the Midget one is. Otherwise I know it's a different chassis but check out Hyperracing.com, the Hyper chassis website has a wealth of setup/preparation advice & instructions which I'm sure if you spend some time reading will hopefully answer some of your questions & help sterr you in the right direction.

7/5/13, 3:03 AM	#8 Re: ride height
diana Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 58	Well there you go, a gentleman and a scholar. Thank you very much , I will screw the adjuster bolt farther in and will be able to subtract and add turns Diana Posted via Mobile Device

7/5/13, 3:05 AM	#9 Re: ride height
diana Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 58	if you have any other setup tricks I sure would enjoy reading them. Again thanks, Diana Posted via Mobile Device

7/5/13, 8:04 AM	#10 Re: ride height
jjones752 Senior Member Race Count This Year: 19 Race Count Last Year: 22 Join Date: Jul 2011 Posts: 2,259	Once you have adjusted the torsion stop bolts, when you go to do your blocking turn the bolts on the STOP until the ARM touches on the opposite side and lock it down; then you should have the ability to adjust either way. Jacking in weight is going to change your ride height, but it shouldn't be so drastic that it makes the car undriveable.