LEADERS EDGE (Offline)
#2
4/25/08 11:27 AM
Here are some ideas and thought that I hope can help you.
First: The way we like to square the rear of a car is to level the frame using a level, then use whatever height blocks it takes to level the arms to the frame. Different cars have different bar heigths so not every car is the same. Then we square the car. After the car is squared we use another set of blocks to set ride height.
We personally like to run the RR arm 1-2 degree positive(From Arm at Bar to cage) and the LR 1-3 degree negative (From Arm at Bar to Cage) Whatever block heights it takes to get that. These are checked with driver in car. Then most generally the nose is blocked about 1/2" higher.
When the car is set down after ride height blocking the first time, that is when you hook up the ladder(do not pull or push on frame to hook up) and check for bind.
The reason the car is blocked between axle and frame is that it's the easiest and most reliable way to do so with the least variables.
Your cars ride height is very dependent on the bar heights and ladder location. Car too low and ladder and arms are running up hill too much and too high the arms and ladder are running down hill too much.
The car should have the nose higher when it is slick to help transfer weight, but it cannot be so high that it runs out of shock travel during weight transfer.
Remember, the torsion arms are the bars(spring rate) lever and their length and leverage point are crucial to how they control the car.
6-6 1/2 inches is probably about right.