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GIBBS (Offline)
  #1 10/3/11 1:42 AM
I am wondering what the non wing guys think about the Buckley style yoke.

All your thoughts are greatly appreciated.

1. How do they help or hurt.
2. How many do you see being used in your area?
3. Is it just hype?
TQ29m (Offline)
  #2 10/4/11 12:42 PM
I guess I'll take a swing at your questions, doesn't appear that anyone else wants to, and I'm almost as clueless, maybe more so, than you. I have seen them used, and honestly am not sure of the reason. Just looking at one, it does look like they would maybe better locate the torque tube, and if everything is geometrically aligned, radius rods and etc, might make a smoother action at the u-joint bend centers. I don't really get excited about having the yokes and all the rotating stuff exposed to my feet and ankles, but I guess a guy could fab a cover, that would form some kind of minimum protection, but other than my opinion, I guess I haven't researched it far enough, to understand any advantage, over a conventional torque ball, mag hsg arrangement. Guess I didn't really say anything, did I? Bob!

"Being old, isn't half as much fun, as getting there"! Ole Robert I!
Tim (Offline)
  #3 10/4/11 12:53 PM
Originally Posted by GIBBS:
I am wondering what the non wing guys think about the Buckley style yoke.

All your thoughts are greatly appreciated.

1. How do they help or hurt.
2. How many do you see being used in your area?
3. Is it just hype?
We've used these exclusively for the last ten years or so both with and (mostly) without wings. We've had no issues with them. I find them to be user friendly, although I'm in the process of designing an enhancement to make maintenance easier. I fabricate a cover/guard for the rotating pieces out of an old ball casting and collar. I have a hypothesis on why, as is claimed, it hooks the car up harder but we've not used a ball in so long I can't remember whether I noticed a difference or not. As far as I know we're the only morons using them around Indiana, or anywhere I've been, which includes most areas of the country except out west. As far as hype, I've not seen any reference to these in a long time. I'm not even sure where to buy a new one.

Tim Simmons
TQ29m (Offline)
  #4 10/4/11 1:31 PM
If you'll google " buckley yoke", you'll find where to buy them, and some conversation about them, if it makes the car hook better, then I'd sure be willing to try one, my midget is a bit loose in the gitty up go mood. Looks like a fairly easy install, looks like it uses 2 of the current bolt holes on each side, that the mag hsg uses, I like the concept, and they do make them for a midget car. Bob!

"Being old, isn't half as much fun, as getting there"! Ole Robert I!
Tim (Offline)
  #5 10/4/11 2:41 PM
Originally Posted by TQ29m:
If you'll google " buckley yoke", you'll find where to buy them, and some conversation about them, if it makes the car hook better, then I'd sure be willing to try one, my midget is a bit loose in the gitty up go mood. Looks like a fairly easy install, looks like it uses 2 of the current bolt holes on each side, that the mag hsg uses, I like the concept, and they do make them for a midget car. Bob!
The only problem I've found with them is that, since it is bolted on two pads which bolt onto the motor plate, when you get into a big crash that trashes the torque tube, it overstresses the pads and, therefore, the bolts/threads in the motor plate where the pads attach. What I've found is that the holes in the motor plate get distorted to the point of being unusable. At this point you either have to replace the motor plate or come up with another solution.

Tim Simmons
TQ29m (Offline)
  #6 10/4/11 4:24 PM
On mine, I have a ring, with studs in it, on the motor side of the motorplate, that hold the mag hsg, and the ring is bolted to the motorplate with a couple of countersink head, allen bolts, to keep it from moving when serviceing the u-joint, it keeps the motorplate from stripping out, and reinforces it in that area, same could be done with the Buckley mount. Just an idee! Bob!

---------- Post added at 04:24 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:53 PM ----------

And, to add to the comment about the hard hits, I've had several, one took out the motorplate center, around the mag hsg, that's when I went to the backup ring, with the studs, and I use ferry head(12 point)nuts, which are somewhat self locking, but take a smaller socket, that allows you to get to them. Bob!

"Being old, isn't half as much fun, as getting there"! Ole Robert I!
GIBBS (Offline)
  #7 10/4/11 11:04 PM
So why do you think the Yoke makes the car hook up harder? If so, it seems it would be a item seen on more wingless cars than winged, right? Also I am wondering about the longer rear radius rods I am seeing, How are they helping?
dant (Offline)
  #8 10/4/11 11:42 PM
two guys I know use them...one in a buckley car designed for this yoke...neither one wins all the races or even seams to have any advantage...one lost a freeze plug and scaulded his sons legs cause there is no containment...when some racers are opting to use steel torque ball housings to protect their legs why would you consider the least safe way? Buckleys have been around 15 plus years ...you see how few use them..i don't see an advantage with a buckley over a standard torque ball set up
TQ29m (Offline)
  #9 10/5/11 3:50 PM
Originally Posted by GIBBS:
So why do you think the Yoke makes the car hook up harder? If so, it seems it would be a item seen on more wingless cars than winged, right? Also I am wondering about the longer rear radius rods I am seeing, How are they helping?
It sure would be nice, to have access to a simulator, or some other device, to watch what/how each piece reacts while doing it's job. I've always felt like if the radius rods pivot point, is the same as the torque tube/driveshaft pivot point, it would remove a lot of unwanted fore and aft motion of the tube and shaft, but, if you look at the short mounted rods, and try to visualize the motion they got thru, you might come away thinking that would provide a better hook, but, does it really make a difference, I can't say, I know once you start something, and if you have any luck with it, they will follow, just like coilover fronts, how many times have we seen that changed, Glen Neible used to like to fool with em, with the ladder mount, one time he'd have the links on the outside, next time they'd be inside, kept everyone busy changing them. Like the old saying goes, win a race with a dog turd on the hood, and next week, everyone will have one! I spent one whole winter, part time, with 1/2" wide strips of 16ga steel, and lots of paper, trying to make the perfect ladder shape, and link length, and finally got what I thought was danged close, and it does work, but, is it any better than one you buy off the shelf? Bob!

"Being old, isn't half as much fun, as getting there"! Ole Robert I!
baldtireman (Offline)
  #10 10/5/11 6:52 PM
Used a Buckley yoke for years in a winged 41" Gambler car. It allowed a less than perfectly rear end center section to be used and still have the rear "free" throughout its travel.(The car hooked up very well) I used bolts threaded into the motor plate,with a reinforcement plate on the motor side,and nuts on the motor side. I crashed the car so hard one nite that it exploded the center section,and crushed the "Buckley"unit.The Motor plate survived. I still use a steel u-joint! I don't trust the aluminum ones. Most of my parts are "duty tested"(used).The magnesium ball would provide no margin of safety in a driveline explosion,anyway! With the buckley unit in the car as we mounted it,the possibility of the driveline taking out the pumps is much reduced,I think...... Any body else???
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