Here's the story. Got the motor in and fired up. Ran about 10 minutes and sounded pretty good. Had a little water line leak, so my buddy put a little tighten on the fitting and cracked it. That was the end of day one. The temp gage never moved (probe is in the right head), but otherwise everything seemed good. Put a new fitting on a few days later and fired it up again. It ran about 5 minutes, and I got uncomfortable with the steam coming out of the breathers and shut it down. Took teh fill cap off the top of the oil pan and oil came pouring out. Obviously runnign a bit rich. Made some phone calls and checked teh barrel valve. It was at 36%, so I backed it down to 18 and adjusted the butterflies according to Hilborn directions. Fired it up again Saturday night and after about 5 minutes, the right side was still really cool and the left side wa super hot. Shut it down. Made some phone calls and was told the barrel valve might be upside down. Took the fuel line adapter off and no hole. Spun it 180 degrees and there was the hole. So I moved the linkage arm across so the hole was up and set it at 18% and reset the butterflies, etc. Tried to fire it up today and no go. The left side is firing, but the right side will only pop once in awhile. The left side will try for 6 seconds or so and it shuts down like it is our of fuel. What did I mess up now? Any ideas? This whole scenario is about 3 weeks long so far. LOL

Are you getting any raw fuel out of the header on the side not firing?

When you shut it down does it drip fuel from the nozzle breathers on both sides? (down nozzles)

Having your barrel valve flipped is a pretty common mistake after pickling a motor.. but if the hole is up and you can watch there groove come around that shouldn't the issue... It sounds like you have your butterflies correct too? It could be as simple as plugged/ blocked nozzles or lines.... I would unhook all your nozzle lines and push it in gear (watching the lines) to make sure they are all getting fuel pressure, might want to re-check your timing too...Its never a bad idea to make sure you have the right pill, high and low speeds arent stuck open and your return line is flowing right...

If all else fails call Jeff Claxton @ 765 437 1986

I'm gonna take the lines off the nozzles and push it tonight to make sure they are all getting fuel flow. Last night I blew air through them all and air went through good, so I'll try fuel tonight. I soaked and blew out all the nozzles before I started it the first time this year and all was clean then, but..... Thanks for the help.

Hey Eric I would recheck the nozzles. I clean mine every week and most of the time they will have a little something in them. So its just good to always have them clean. Also check your spark plugs to make sure nothing happen there. If you need any help you can call me Tony Reed 317-694-4263 ill do my best to help you out

Steam from the breathers isn't uncommon. It isn't uncommon for a motor not to get temp while it's just sitting at idle nor is it uncommon for one side not to have as much temp as the other if the side to side is off when it is at idle.

Sounds like the barrell may be completley off now where before it was only slightly off.

Checking nozzles and everything is smart as well, but I would work backwards since it once ran and now it doesn't.

Like someone mentioned, get it started again and check the timing and make sure all of that is good.

Just a couple of more "2 cents worth", if you now have the rotor in the barrel valve, so as you open the throttle shutters, the hole in the rotor turns into a slot that gets deeper,and wider pretty quick, then it is in correctly, and, as far as I know, there is nothing else in the body of the valve, except the connections for the lines to the nozzles, and if you can hook air to the inlet of the barrel valve, and with the lines off the nozzles, blow air thru it, and feel air coming out each line, and increase as you open up the shutters, I'd work backwards, cking the leakage on the valve, as well as the "s" or idle bypass valve, at this point, I believe you should be firing all cylinders, unless, the bank that isn't firing has the idle set too low, and they aren't getting any air, only fuel, lots of things to go over, might try backing off the idle screws, till you can put a .005 feeler gauge thru them, then turn them one turn open, and see if that helps, then you can set the idle, after it gets warm, and yes, you will see steam, it is the vapor off the alcohol turning to water, that will go away as it builds heat, and the alcohol evaporates. Hard enough to diagnose in person, let alone on here, or the phone, sometimes. Keep at it, sounds like you might be learning something. Bob!

When you push it off with the lines disconnected make sure they point away from whoever is watching them...and secure them down with a ziptie or tape...and maybe wear some eye protection....sometimes alky comes spraying out of those hard enough to spray into your eyes...and with enough pressure to make the line move around a bit...like a waterhose on full blast that nobodys holding..I was on a 4wheeler once pushing a midget with the driver sitting on the nerfbar watching the unhooked lines and he got sprayed in the face...none got in his eyes luckily

Question- Did you cap off the fitting for the secondary bypass before you leaked down the barrel valve. If not then you probably got a bogus reading. Another thing, did you check that the ramp in the barrel valve is opening as you rotate the valve? I saw that you looked at the hole, but that can be misleading, the round hole is what ports fuel to the secondary bypass, but the ramp is what lets fuel go to the engine. I got bit by that a few years back.
Also what was the air temp when you fired it the first time. I can't get my 410 to warm up while idling on cold days unless I shut down the fuel supply and raise the idle. If I leave it bumping along at 900 rpm with the fuel supply wide open, the temp never reaches 140, and all the excess methanol starts steaming out of the breather. When the engine warms up the fog stops.

I surely am learning a lot. Many thanks to all of you and a few local guys trying real hard to help me out.

Yesterday, I blew backwards through the fuel lines to make sure there wasn't something blocking the pickup or line somewhere. Then I took the lines off and nozzles out and blew out the nozzles and put them on and hung the lines with nozzles attached off the tubes so I watch to see how much fuel was coming out when we pushed it down the rioad without plugs in. I was surprised at how long it took to get fuel to come out, and then it wasn't coming out like I thought it should. When I turned around and headed back towards the house, it started coming out really well. Enough that I had to turn to fuel off becasue I was tired of eating it.

It was getting dark and cold, so that ended the outside part of the project. Then through a few more late night phone conversations, I think I have the barrel valve thing figured out. I do not have the idle bypass off the metering block like everyone else does, which apparently means my valve has to be like it was before I changed it. So I changed it back to the way it was when it was running and reset the leakdown to 18%. New set of plugs in case they are washed out.

Gotta work late tonight, so I'll get everything put back together tomorrow and fire her up.

I need to have 5 thousandths clearance between the butterfly and the wall at idle? I'll have to check that tonight. I've made sure they are all set the same, but using allen wrenches or sockets for clearance and resistance like they do on Hilborn's video, I don't know what cleance they have at idle.

Thanks again to everyone for your help.

When you are setting the leakage on the barrell valve, which is just a starting point, you need to cap off the idle bypass, and set a shutter on each side, on a .002 piece of gauge stock, then set the leakage. The .005 I referenced, was just between the idle screw, and the body of the injector casting, if it has an idle adjustment on both banks, do the same to both, then give the idle adj screw one turn clockwise, as a starting point, if it has only one, idle adjusting screw, back it off, and loosen your linkage arm that connects both banks, and make sure the shutters on both banks are closed, then tighten the clamp screw on the arm, and set your idle as I suggested, one turn clockwise, after contact with the stop. Good luck, and, BTW, sounds like you may be running a OO pump, which is OK, they, or any of them, have little lifting suction, but when they get primed, they have plenty. Bob!