Question on blocking chassis

5/4/10, 11:51 AM

I've been blocking my car the same way all year and everyone is telling me the chassis just looks to high in how it sits. The only thing I can think of that I might be doing wrong is the tightening of the stop bolts. I run 3" front blocks and 4" rear blocks. The shocks are long enough for the axles to sit on the block, so no problem there. I put the stop bolt down to the pad and go until I can't hand tighten anymore, then I put in a quarter turn to make sure it is tight. Is this wrong? Should I just go until the bolt touches the pad? Thanks for the help...

LEADERS EDGE · 5/4/10, 1:18 PM

Typically,most people just touch off and tighten jam nut. The bolt cannot come loose if you are running a jam nut and it is tightened properly.

You should check your car and make sure the torsion tubes aren't dimpled under the pad. If they are, the dimpled part can rub the torsion bar while it is twisting causing the car to not transfer weight properly. Normally you can tell by shiney/worn spots on the torsion bar in the area of where it sits in relation to the tube. The tubes can be dimpled from normal wear and tear, but generally it is caused when the stop bolt is screwed down with the cars weight on it.

If there is a dent that rubs,you can remove the dent/dimple by either grinding out the spot with a small tool or if it is dented badly, by taking out the bushing and driving an iron ball or similar piece of material through the tube.

Best of Luck,

Scott Baue
Leaders Edge Racing Products and Services

Poorboyjocko · 5/21/10, 10:23 PM

There are a couple of things you did not state

What tracks do you run--What make of car you drive--What motor do you have (alum. or steel block) What style of bird cages do you have-Wheel base of your car--4-bar or coil front-What is your waight.
I would guess that you have a 4-bar or 5- bar with standard wing bird cages. If this is correct and you have a alum. motor, I would say you are blocking your car to high. Another thing is, how much driving experence do you have. If you had a lot, you would already know if the roll center is to high in your car. If you run Paragon, you could get by with running your car higher until the track took rubber. My thought would be, lower the car-use 1/2 in. higher blocks and run the stops till they touch (finger tight) and then put the weight into the car like you normaly do. This would be, if the car is a 4-bar with std. bird cages.
Every one has an openion, this is mine with out looking at the car and assessing the track conditions for the night of racing.
Phil Poor

5/4/10, 11:51 AM	#1 Question on blocking chassis
dirt4life Posts: n/a	I've been blocking my car the same way all year and everyone is telling me the chassis just looks to high in how it sits. The only thing I can think of that I might be doing wrong is the tightening of the stop bolts. I run 3" front blocks and 4" rear blocks. The shocks are long enough for the axles to sit on the block, so no problem there. I put the stop bolt down to the pad and go until I can't hand tighten anymore, then I put in a quarter turn to make sure it is tight. Is this wrong? Should I just go until the bolt touches the pad? Thanks for the help...

5/4/10, 1:18 PM	#2 Re: Question on blocking chassis
LEADERS EDGE Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 980	Typically,most people just touch off and tighten jam nut. The bolt cannot come loose if you are running a jam nut and it is tightened properly. You should check your car and make sure the torsion tubes aren't dimpled under the pad. If they are, the dimpled part can rub the torsion bar while it is twisting causing the car to not transfer weight properly. Normally you can tell by shiney/worn spots on the torsion bar in the area of where it sits in relation to the tube. The tubes can be dimpled from normal wear and tear, but generally it is caused when the stop bolt is screwed down with the cars weight on it. If there is a dent that rubs,you can remove the dent/dimple by either grinding out the spot with a small tool or if it is dented badly, by taking out the bushing and driving an iron ball or similar piece of material through the tube. Best of Luck, Scott Baue Leaders Edge Racing Products and Services

5/21/10, 10:23 PM	#3 Re: Question on blocking chassis
Poorboyjocko Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 218	There are a couple of things you did not state What tracks do you run--What make of car you drive--What motor do you have (alum. or steel block) What style of bird cages do you have-Wheel base of your car--4-bar or coil front-What is your waight. I would guess that you have a 4-bar or 5- bar with standard wing bird cages. If this is correct and you have a alum. motor, I would say you are blocking your car to high. Another thing is, how much driving experence do you have. If you had a lot, you would already know if the roll center is to high in your car. If you run Paragon, you could get by with running your car higher until the track took rubber. My thought would be, lower the car-use 1/2 in. higher blocks and run the stops till they touch (finger tight) and then put the weight into the car like you normaly do. This would be, if the car is a 4-bar with std. bird cages. Every one has an openion, this is mine with out looking at the car and assessing the track conditions for the night of racing. Phil Poor