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To harken back to the old days, and it hasn't been that long ago, and I'm assuming you are talking about the "yoke", guys would actually cut the length of the yoke down, and only use maybe 2 inchs or so of spline, and then shorten the torque tube length, so only the drive shaft was in the tube, but that was real scarey. What I considered the wise move, was to turn the OD of the yoke to about 1.650, and use it full length, that kept it from wearing out the inside of the tube, and kept the driveshaft from wobbleing. Another thing that will help, is try to keep the pivot points in line, where your torque ball pivots, your rear radius rods should pivot, that keeps the torque tube from moving in and out of the torque ball. It may not be the best for forward bite, but it does keep the tube and stuff happier. On the Tq,s, I've turned the od of the aluminum yokes to actually a smaller od, and they've lived. Going back a bit further, there were several torque ball's available, that had a bearing, right behind the yoke, that supported the driveshaft, in the tube, and that worked really good. I just sold one the other day, to a fellow restoring an older midget, it was the first one I'd seen, made out of aluminum, most were steel. Hang in there, someone will have the answer that suits you best. Bob
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