10/25/24, 12:52 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim
When the "Outlaw" tanks came out they completely changed the mounting method. With these there are 4 inserts molded into the tank itself - 1 on each side on the upper tank with tabs, or clamp-style mounts, on the chassis where a 5/16" bolt screws into the insert through the tab/mount and 1 on each side of the bottom of the tank with tabs welded onto the torsion tube and, again, a 5/16" bolt holding it on. The design of these tanks does not utilize plates mounted through the tank as was done prior to these tanks.
As I said in my post, I have never like the mounting method using inserts molded into the plastic tank. I weld tabs onto the torsion tubes like we did with the older tanks and fabricate a plate with bolts that go through the tank like we did with the prior design tanks. I still use the clamp on mounts to support the upper tank but I feel with the lower mounting means this suffices.
I also agree with a previous post concerning the rear bumper integrity. I make bumpers with the lower basket to help protect the tank, mostly from an economic standpoint as these tanks have gotten really expensive, but also from a safety aspect to help keep the tank in the car during a wreck. I also use material more robust than the 0.065" (or thinner) wall stainless tubing currently popular these days.
If you need a picture of how the new tanks are mounted you can probably look on Saldana's website. And, again, I hope the powers-that-be look more closely at this before someone really gets hurt. Like was said, I don't recall this issue with the original design mounting.
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I kinda thought it was nut inserts in the tank….my opinion coming from 50 years of doing mechanic work no way I’d trust those with anything on a race car.
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