Originally Posted by jjones752:
Pat,
What's the offset between the crank & countershaft on your R1? Montpelier and MMSA still want you to keep it under 6" with the drive shaft on the centerline.
Dad,
Regarding the $700 premium, wouldn't you eventually eat that up replacing chain and sprockets?
What's M/E loss? we talkin' drag/friction here?
Jim
Yep that chain is expensive.
The efficiency of a Hypoid gear with a very low mounted pinion aka rear end is down around 90 to 95% multiply that by the 95 to 98% efficiency for the quick change gears and you get something like a 20% loss of efficiency. Them rear ends get hot and that heat (friction) is due to sliding of the teeth in the Hypoid type gears. This eats up horse power. That is why they make special oils for Hypoid gears because regular oils just aren't strong enough to work with them.
Problem:: if you placed the motor fore and aft in the center of the chassis the drive shaft is already offset to the right several inches. Place it 6" offset to the left and the drive shaft is probably going to be inline with the brake pedal. Then you got to figure out how to raise the drive line or drop the engine enough to get the drive shaft in-line. TQ's fix this problem by chopping off the transmission. That worked OK with the low rpm of the 750 Honda but to try to gear for 13,000 RPM's + with an 82" tire with only the rear end gears is not possible right now. Boy that is going to be a strange looking quick change.
I could see probably a jack shaft with timing belt being used for both motor placement and gear ratio. When somebody finally does this I'm going to put two of these things in a race car and go race full midgets Ala dual engine go Karts. They weren't a whole lot faster but boy did they give you a kick in the butt when you got down on them.
Wonder if they would allow Dual Right Rears?
Honest Dad himself
