Originally Posted by diana:
Hello All,
I am looking for some good old fashioned, honest, down to earth advice on setups.
Bailey 1000 cc For example the car is totally stripped ready for powder coating and
now we are putting it back together. What I want is a step by step procedure of putting it back together
and establishing a base line setup. Include all info / car on jacks or ground/adjusting ride heights, blocking squaring , scaling , tire pressures , stagger
Bird cage timing , shock numbers,dry or wet track conditions. Remember small things that you take for granted others are not aware of. This will most likely take more than one evening to prepare. There are a lot of different techniques to accomplish the end product.
I would like to hear from all. I'm pretty sure there are a lot of other racers who would be very interested in this topic. Lets all get together on this and help everyone
especially the new racers out there. It's a shame to waste all the talent and experience locked away in so many of your minds. I look forward to hearing from you and a sincere thank you from myself
and the millions of racers who will read this.
Merry Christmas to all.
With my Bailey, I always use the motor plate as a reference for squaring the front and rear axles. I also use plain 2x4 pieces for blocking. Just lift the car up with the blocks between the lower frame tube and the axle, slide the bar stops on with the adjustment bolts 50/50 in the stop so you have room to adjust up or down. Run the bolt down to where it just touches the torsion tube and tighten the lock nut. Remove the blocks and set the car down. On my car, I run 3" on the front, 2 1/2 on the right rear, 2 5/16 on the left rear. That's what was suggested for my car. It works just fine for me. Main thing is to setup the car with a recommended baseline from Bailey and adjust from there once you get to know how the car reacts. Starting out on the track, do one small adjustment and note how that one change made a difference. I have ran my baseline noted above for 2 years on 3 different size and banked tracks. Shocks are what make it all come together for me. One thing to remember, locktite your pinch bolts and I put a bright paint mark on the nut/bolt to help indicate that the nut has moved. If your car is a 4 bar rear. Timing your cages should be done after all alignment and blocking is done and put your "race weight" in the car. Either buy a cage level or for the poor folk like me, run a tad bit longer bolts on your cages because then you should be able to use a regular level. Just make sure your top and bottom bolts are level over each other. After you're done timing the cages, double check your axle alignments incase you knocked it out of whack. Adjust one rod longer and one rod shorter to help keep the axle from moving. That should get you in a drivable ballpark to get you track time, experience, and be patient learning how to use your baseline setup. One thing I must note about my car is I only run non-wing but Floyd's baseline should be pretty close. Pick up the mini sprint guide book and jimmy sills midget DVD. Very helpful info and will give you a better understanding how to properly setup a car. Good luck and Merry Christmas!!!