The other guys who posted are correct. What I do, however, is check to see if the torsion tubes are parallel to each other. I put the chassis on jack stands and shim until the rear torsion tubes are dead-level. I then check the front torsion tubes and the motor plate mounts. If they aren't dead-level then the chassis has some twist in it. This isn't necessarily a problem as long as I can decipher how much twist is there. I then make set-up adjustments to compensate for the twist.

I also check the rear tube-to-motor plate distance on both sides, and the front tube to motor plate distance to check for diamonding(sp?). I then mark dead center of the chassis on the rear tubes and front of the cockpit in the motor plate area. I pull a string through these points to the front and measure the centerline of the front part of the chassis to this line to see if the chassis is bent from the motor plate forward. Again, not necessarily a problem if you can adjust and compensate in setup.

Just what I do. Although I've not been fortunate anough to ever have a brand new chassis, I've put a few cars together for other guys and have done the same thing. I've not found a new chassis that was off by a measureable amount.

Tim Simmons