Re: Dry Sump Questions
 

Theoretically(as I unfortunately do not have nay experience building sprint car engines "yet") the only issue that I can see from turning a higher RPM on a wet sump engine with a pan where the pick up was located in a well on the right rear would be that since the pump is then pumping more oil at a time, there would be more oil in the overhead than would be in an engine running a lower RPM. Is it possible that the drain back from the head could be improved, therefore getting the oil back down to the pan from the heads quicker?

For the record, my 360 with 23 degree heads runs best at high RPM. If I don't get that engine up to 8600 it's a dog. Unfortunately I don't have a high dollar tach, so I don't know my lowest RPM on the laps that I bog the engine. Obviously cam profile is also an issue affecting where the engine makes its power.

Re: Dry Sump Questions
 

Originally Posted by Unlucky#9:
Theoretically(as I unfortunately do not have nay experience building sprint car engines "yet") the only issue that I can see from turning a higher RPM on a wet sump engine with a pan where the pick up was located in a well on the right rear would be that since the pump is then pumping more oil at a time, there would be more oil in the overhead than would be in an engine running a lower RPM. Is it possible that the drain back from the head could be improved, therefore getting the oil back down to the pan from the heads quicker?

Have you ever noticed how much room is around the push rods? How much more 'drain back' do you need?

Originally Posted by Can26:
Have you ever noticed how much room is around the push rods? How much more 'drain back' do you need?

Correct me if I'm wrong here, but in a V engine such as a sprint car engine, wouldn't gravity pull the oil away from the holes for the push rods? Therefore the majority of the oil would then drain back around the outside of the crank case verses down into the valley?

Have done this exact thing to a modified engine that will momentarily have oil pressure issues coming off high speed by locating ports in the front and rear of the right side head, as far out and low as possible and placing a return lines to the pan. It allows for easier oil return when car is rolled over.

Re: Dry Sump Questions
 

Originally Posted by Unlucky#9:
Correct me if I'm wrong here, but in a V engine such as a sprint car engine, wouldn't gravity pull the oil away from the holes for the push rods? Therefore the majority of the oil would then drain back around the outside of the crank case verses down into the valley?

Just try to point out that there is no way possible to 'flood' the top end of an engine. And also, as long as no 'outside line' is plumbed into the head, all the oil will travel through the valley one way or another.

Re: Dry Sump Questions
 

I would buy a used dry sump system from a trustworthy source first before anything else if you really want to piece one together because it sounds like you can't afford reliability problems. We're still doing 360, 410 since 1985 with several championships including USAC sprint and unfortunately for you, your logic sounds like mine did in 1984! I'd be saving for a fresh used -12 Shaver/Gaerte way cheaper than you'll ever piece one together.

Re: Dry Sump Questions
 

Originally Posted by Can26:
Just try to point out that there is no way possible to 'flood' the top end of an engine. And also, as long as no 'outside line' is plumbed into the head, all the oil will travel through the valley one way or another.

Absolutely can flood the top of the engine with oil due to windage from a 410/430 crank not allowing drain back past the crank. That's why we've blocked all drain back through the valley of a 410 since the late 80's/90's and run a dry sump scavenge line into the valley. The aluminum block manufacturers provide the provision. We used to put a pipe down though the injection valley plate fro the scavenge line. We still allow the 360 to drain through enlarged drain backs in the valley, but I know of no serious sprint engine builders that still try to drain 410's through the valley. One reason why 360 can run a 3 stage dry sump pump, where a 410 is always a 4 stage minimum.

Originally Posted by Baylands:
I would buy a used dry sump system from a trustworthy source first before anything else if you really want to piece one together because it sounds like you can't afford reliability problems. We're still doing 360, 410 since 1985 with several championships including USAC sprint and unfortunately for you, your logic sounds like mine did in 1984! I'd be saving for a fresh used -12 Shaver/Gaerte way cheaper than you'll ever piece one together.

This^^^^^

Re: Dry Sump Questions
 

Originally Posted by Unlucky#9:
Correct me if I'm wrong here, but in a V engine such as a sprint car engine, wouldn't gravity pull the oil away from the holes for the push rods? Therefore the majority of the oil would then drain back around the outside of the crank case verses down into the valley?

Exactly my thoughts.
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