Re: Badger Midget Engine Build Information and Pictures
 

Next step we are going to check how flat our cylinder head is. We need this head to be completely flat or we risk blowing head gaskets. Since its a used head there is a likelihood that it is not flat. All it takes is to overheat the engine one time and it could warp. To check, we use a solid piece of granite and a height stand to check the head in multiple locations across the surface.

https://static.wixstatic.com/media/f...8_1561_s_2.jpg

Next we need to resurface the head. We are going to take just enough off to make sure the surface is flat and the head mates to the block perfectly. Just think, if we were not allowed to do this due to a compression rule, we would have to throw away a perfectly good cyl head!! We might even have to buy a brand new one from Honda just to lower our compression enough. New heads cost thousands of dollars not just a couple hundred! Would you want to throw away a perfectly good cylinder head? Not me. Since the Badger rules have no compression limit this cylinder head will last us several seasons! (Side note: When a series has a "stock piston" rule, you won't be allowed to go to the next size piston because you honed your block during a rebuild. Hopefully you don't scuff a side wall! Just think, you could have to throw away your block and head every season just so you can maintain an arbitrary compression rule that has no bearing on anything. Doesn't make sense!)

https://static.wixstatic.com/media/f...a86773~mv2.jpg

If we want to figure out the true compression of our engine we need to CC the head. Thats what we are doing in this picture. Whistlers are not accurate especially when an engine is hot. So we check our compression the right way.

https://static.wixstatic.com/media/f...64d1ae~mv2.jpg

Check out this online calculator for figuring compression ratio from Diamond Pistons. There are also many articles online on how to figure compression. Just search it out and you should find one.
http://www.diamondracing.net/tools/

Re: Badger Midget Engine Build Information and Pictures
 

This is a good read...Tip of the hat to Ray!...Agree with him on the "stock" piston issue and the whistler ...that is why our D-2 series allow aftermarket (flat top) 3 ring pistons with stock pin location and no Ti pin... scope it and done:6:

Re: Badger Midget Engine Build Information and Pictures
 

Originally Posted by Ray3:
The Honda K24 crankshaft is a forged steel crank. I do not know the alloy. I can try to find out for you and let you know. Our crankshaft has two seasons on it thus far with no issues. We purchased it brand new for $284.00.

The block guard can be installed multiple ways. Some just press it in, others press it and then weld it in place, and some press it in and use red loctite or epoxy.

The Darton Sleeves are the full length of the original sleeves. They are a press fit and sealed with o-rings.
Here is a video of a Darton Sleeve install on a Honda K20 block. This is NOT my block but it's the same install process.

https://youtu.be/rVPCAdhcN3w

Thank you for your questions and interest in the Badger engine program.

Thank you sir, very interesting...

Re: Badger Midget Engine Build Information and Pictures
 

:44:

Re: Badger Midget Engine Build Information and Pictures
 

In this picture we have a Honda block with the girdle attached. You can see that this block is upside down on the work bench and the corner has been machined. In order to lay this engine over at 45 degrees in the chassis, we must remove some material. If we don't it is a safety concern because part of the block will protrude below the chassis. If left alone it could catch the race track or in the event of a crash penetrate someones car. Machining it flat alleviates those concerns.

Quick note as well. The Badger Midget engine rules disallow lightening the block beyond what is necessary to fit the engine into the chassis. Two reasons for this rule are 1. We don't want to weaken the blocks and cause blown engines from cracked blocks and 2. We don't want to add unnecessary cost to the engines. Every rule in the Badger Midget engine program was thought through and serves a purpose. If you write rules you want to make sure you have someone who understands engines, understands the sport and is not writing them to benefit themselves or a specific manufacturer.

https://static.wixstatic.com/media/f...4_1632_s_2.jpg

Re: Badger Midget Engine Build Information and Pictures
 

Just as important as the engine itself is preparing your car for one of these engines. The majority of the Badger engines have the injection unit on the left side of the chassis. Therefore, a cable throttle is the best way to go. Be sure you have your chassis builder or a fabricator that can help you design and weld something to your car to attach the cable on both ends.

https://static.wixstatic.com/media/f...4_1632_s_2.jpg

Re: Badger Midget Engine Build Information and Pictures
 

Before we can begin assembling our engine we need to make some purchases. Be sure to use nothing but the best internal components. I am very partial to Carrillo rods particularly. Also be sure the products you choose are legal. Intake & exhaust valves must NOT be titanium. We choose Ferrea stainless steel valves at around $16 each! We also chose to use Ferrea rocker arms. We could use the stock ones but in order to eliminate variable valve timing which is NOT legal in Badger we would have to use the stock exhaust rocker on both the intake and exhaust. However, be careful because aftermarket cams will not fit with stock rockers. Be sure to use ARP head studs as well. Stock head studs will not last and must be replaced each time the head is taken off the block. ARP head studs can be used season after season! We want this engine to last us a long time so making this investment up front will alleviate engine failure down the road.

https://static.wixstatic.com/media/f...a44364~mv2.jpg

Re: Badger Midget Engine Build Information and Pictures
 

We use ACL main and rod bearings in our Honda engines. Be sure to check clearances. You will want to order both a set of "H" and "HX" bearings in case you need extra clearance. HX bearings are standard + .001. You can also mix an H and an HX if needed to get the right clearance. If you had your crank ground you can also get undersize bearings which would actually be a thicker bearing to make up what was ground off the crankshaft. At $284 for a crankshaft though, I would never have one ground. Just buy new and move on.

https://static.wixstatic.com/media/f...64de20~mv2.jpg

Re: Badger Midget Engine Build Information and Pictures
 

One thing about any four cylinder engine is the harmonics. Cracking an oil pan is not uncommon. However, for the 2017 season Ray Racing Enterprises had a pan developed specifically to eliminate this issue. You can see this reinforced oil pan below is extremely strong. It also allows the engine to be laid over 45 degrees without any sumping issues.

https://static.wixstatic.com/media/f...ef2798~mv2.jpg

https://static.wixstatic.com/media/f...fa1260~mv2.jpg

Re: Badger Midget Engine Build Information and Pictures
 

Not sure why this thread never goes back to the top when we post in it. Are these pictures and info helpful or no?