Dry Slick Setup Henchraft

goforit14 · 7/30/15, 3:26 PM

Henchcraft guys any input appreciated. I run 2010 hench lightening sprint. Coil front, bar rear. I have had a consistent issue where car is great early in night when track still heavy. BUT when it slicks off it gets real loose. Mostly no forward bite but also loose some side bite. I have tried multiple different set ups. What is consistent is the RR tire is really hot and LR has almost no heat. Recently I went to softer RR to try to get the car to roll on the right but not much help.

Right now it has the following springs on it.This is the softest setup I have run with:

LF - 140
RF - 125
LR - 825
RR - 775

My stiffer setup has been:

LF - 150
RF - 160
LR - 825
RR - 800

I have adjustable shocks and usually tie down LR when heavy and ease up when track slicks up. I also easy up the front shock's when slick. I set my ride height so it is slight (1/4") forward tilt to start. Overall ride height is about 3 3/4".. Any input appreciated

badcoupe · 7/30/15, 5:49 PM

Raise the front lower rear is it z-link or wishbone rear? If z link move both rear radius up to higher mount on frame if adjustable. How high are your panhard and Jacobs ladder set? Also look at a torsion bar chart using your rear arm lengths you may not have as much split in the bars

wilkey118 · 7/30/15, 6:17 PM

You can use www.torsionbarrate.com

To find the spring rate of the bar

Bear10 · 7/30/15, 10:27 PM

Sent u a private message

LEADERS EDGE · 7/30/15, 10:42 PM

Wing?

kinser · 7/30/15, 11:29 PM

One thing you need to do is switch your front springs around

goforit14 · 7/31/15, 3:43 PM

This is non wing where I am having issues.. Was told by a long time midget racer that the tire with more heat actually needs more weight. The thinking is it slipping more and creating more heat. So we went to softer right side springs to get the car to roll and transfer more weight. The rear torsion arms lengths are 12" LR and 10 1/2 RR.

Thanks

Bear10 · 7/31/15, 8:30 PM

Go for it . Do you want help on ur hench ? If so check your private message.

LEADERS EDGE · 7/31/15, 9:09 PM

Borrow a set of scales....put the standard bars you were running and scale it and then put the softer bars in it and see what the weights tell you. Softer bars don't carry more weight...they carry less weight and the weight is then carried in other places. I would put the original set up on it....get in the car and see what the rear arm angles are with you in it. That will also help you see where the ladder is. The lower the roll center....the less the car wants to roll and stick the RR. If the rear arms are breaking over center or have a lot if angle from bar to cage....you lose spring rate.

7/31/15, 9:09 PM	#9
LEADERS EDGE Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 980	Borrow a set of scales....put the standard bars you were running and scale it and then put the softer bars in it and see what the weights tell you. Softer bars don't carry more weight...they carry less weight and the weight is then carried in other places. I would put the original set up on it....get in the car and see what the rear arm angles are with you in it. That will also help you see where the ladder is. The lower the roll center....the less the car wants to roll and stick the RR. If the rear arms are breaking over center or have a lot if angle from bar to cage....you lose spring rate. _________________________________________________ Last edited by LEADERS EDGE; 7/31/15 at 9:13 PM.

7/30/15, 3:26 PM	#1 Dry Slick Setup Henchraft
goforit14 Member Join Date: Jan 2013 Posts: 96	Henchcraft guys any input appreciated. I run 2010 hench lightening sprint. Coil front, bar rear. I have had a consistent issue where car is great early in night when track still heavy. BUT when it slicks off it gets real loose. Mostly no forward bite but also loose some side bite. I have tried multiple different set ups. What is consistent is the RR tire is really hot and LR has almost no heat. Recently I went to softer RR to try to get the car to roll on the right but not much help. Right now it has the following springs on it.This is the softest setup I have run with: LF - 140 RF - 125 LR - 825 RR - 775 My stiffer setup has been: LF - 150 RF - 160 LR - 825 RR - 800 I have adjustable shocks and usually tie down LR when heavy and ease up when track slicks up. I also easy up the front shock's when slick. I set my ride height so it is slight (1/4") forward tilt to start. Overall ride height is about 3 3/4".. Any input appreciated

7/30/15, 5:49 PM	#2
badcoupe Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 1,000	Raise the front lower rear is it z-link or wishbone rear? If z link move both rear radius up to higher mount on frame if adjustable. How high are your panhard and Jacobs ladder set? Also look at a torsion bar chart using your rear arm lengths you may not have as much split in the bars

7/30/15, 6:17 PM	#3
wilkey118 Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Posts: 25	You can use www.torsionbarrate.com To find the spring rate of the bar

7/30/15, 10:27 PM	#4
Bear10 Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Posts: 125	Sent u a private message

7/30/15, 10:42 PM	#5
LEADERS EDGE Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 980	Wing?

7/30/15, 11:29 PM	#6
kinser Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 487	One thing you need to do is switch your front springs around

7/31/15, 3:43 PM	#7 Re: Dry Slick Setup Henchraft
goforit14 Member Join Date: Jan 2013 Posts: 96	This is non wing where I am having issues.. Was told by a long time midget racer that the tire with more heat actually needs more weight. The thinking is it slipping more and creating more heat. So we went to softer right side springs to get the car to roll and transfer more weight. The rear torsion arms lengths are 12" LR and 10 1/2 RR. Thanks

7/31/15, 8:30 PM	#8
Bear10 Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Posts: 125	Go for it . Do you want help on ur hench ? If so check your private message.