Setup Help on Stop and Go track

2/25/10, 1:55 AM

Hey, I run a tight, stop and go type 1/4 mile dirt track with a winged 360 sprint. I seem to have a lot of trouble hooking up coming out of the corner. In addition to the very tight turning radius, the dirt in the track has a sandy compostion, making traction that much tougher to find. I can't find a lot of setup information for a track of this type, is there any specific area of the setup that I need to focus on? I'm running 1025 bars on the left, 1000 on the right, wing typically further back than at other tracks. Thanks for any ideas.

dant · 2/25/10, 5:11 AM

dri bar

v8j · 2/25/10, 11:15 AM

the gains of the Dri-Bar come from several directions.First we must realize that with the traditional set up the R.R. torsion bar is required to do 2 separate jobs.the first 1 is controlling the compression of the race car vertically.The second is controlling the horizontal roll of the race car.with the traditional set-up the sping rate is significantly stiffer in the compression direction than it needs to be,which reduces the forward bite. By allowing the Dri-Bar to control the roll of the race car,we can soften the RR torsion bar improving the forward bit. at the same time this increases the reverse split of the rear spring rate. which in turns improves the LR drive as well.the other gain is that unlike LR rebound to control weight transfer,with the Dri-Bar.when the weight has been transferred,the stored energy created by winding up the Dri-Bar puts the car back onto the left rear to drive off harder.the final gain is the ability to adjust the spring rate of the system from the cockpit.By balancing the car with the adjustment handle in the center selection, the driver can pull the handle back to stiffen the rate with a full fuel load or a rough race track,and move the handle forward and this will soften the rate.as the fuel burns off or the grip of the track is reduced. I hope this information can help you. if you need you can contact the Dri-Bar guys at (317)486-9710

LEADERS EDGE · 2/25/10, 2:00 PM

Are you sure you don't have the car so tight on entry and middle that it "snaps" loose from the middle out with all of the wheel input?

For a winged car, I would think that you may want to go with a pair of 1000's in the rear or maybe even a .975LR and move the LR out some.

Often; a car that is loose off is the result of a car that is too tight early in the corner. Drivers typically remember that it's loose off, but forget that they have been compensating for a tight condition in.

As it looks from your numbers; the car has alot of Static LR in it and often a car that has a lot of static LR and is driven in the corner straight as most wing cars are; they tend to stick the RR hard and then the driver is forced to really crank the wheel and the car over rotates. With a little less LR bar, the car can rotate or roll the center easier and with the LR wheel out, the car can wing down a little easier getting off.

All wing racing is about momentum and you have to roll the center. If a car turns in nice, rolls the middle and wants to spin the tires getting off, then you can keep the car loaded with the brake. After you get the car turned, you can use the inboard brake to load the chassis because as the brake is depressed the energy from the the rotor causes the car to push down on the rear and load the chassis. If you are out of the throttle for an extended time and then try and get back to it, that too will cause the wheels to spin. The Dri-Bar systm is a great tool as well, to use it to it's fullest potential make sure that your car is as good as you can possibly make it.

Maybe I am wrong, but always study your problems starting with corner entry through corner exit.

Best of Luck

Scott Baue

Geoff Kaiser · 2/25/10, 2:15 PM

Scott, whats the old saying..."pushy loose".

TQ29m · 2/25/10, 2:59 PM

Scott, I always hear "needs more stagger", when as you say, the car turns in good, but wants to push coming off, moving the LR out an inch, will sometimes make the stagger problem go away. I'm not one to get too far from what "works" most of the time, and especially if the motor's down a little bit, hard to drive one with a bad "heart"! That's my 2 cents worth, for what I know about it! Bob

flipalong · 2/27/10, 8:25 PM

In my opinion I would try to soften the right rear and see if that helps.
Don't try to much at once or you might not know if your adjustments helped or hendered you. Also check your throttle throw if it is to short it is kinda like a on/off button and you can't control wheel spin, make sure you have as much as you feel comfortable with.

LEADERS EDGE · 2/28/10, 1:24 AM

The point about the throttle is a good one.

Bar split is interesting in terms that some guys really like it and some don't.

3/25/10, 10:35 PM

Try taking as much stagger out of the car as possible until it will not turn. Then move the RR out until it does. Moving LR in and out is not going to do much considering a stop and go track. Also try to put some rebound in the front shocks to allow the car to transfer its weight back onto the rear as you exit.

2/25/10, 2:00 PM	#4 Re: Setup Help on Stop and Go track
LEADERS EDGE Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 980	Are you sure you don't have the car so tight on entry and middle that it "snaps" loose from the middle out with all of the wheel input? For a winged car, I would think that you may want to go with a pair of 1000's in the rear or maybe even a .975LR and move the LR out some. Often; a car that is loose off is the result of a car that is too tight early in the corner. Drivers typically remember that it's loose off, but forget that they have been compensating for a tight condition in. As it looks from your numbers; the car has alot of Static LR in it and often a car that has a lot of static LR and is driven in the corner straight as most wing cars are; they tend to stick the RR hard and then the driver is forced to really crank the wheel and the car over rotates. With a little less LR bar, the car can rotate or roll the center easier and with the LR wheel out, the car can wing down a little easier getting off. All wing racing is about momentum and you have to roll the center. If a car turns in nice, rolls the middle and wants to spin the tires getting off, then you can keep the car loaded with the brake. After you get the car turned, you can use the inboard brake to load the chassis because as the brake is depressed the energy from the the rotor causes the car to push down on the rear and load the chassis. If you are out of the throttle for an extended time and then try and get back to it, that too will cause the wheels to spin. The Dri-Bar systm is a great tool as well, to use it to it's fullest potential make sure that your car is as good as you can possibly make it. Maybe I am wrong, but always study your problems starting with corner entry through corner exit. Best of Luck Scott Baue _________________________________________________ Last edited by LEADERS EDGE; 2/25/10 at 2:13 PM.

2/25/10, 2:59 PM	#6 Re: Setup Help on Stop and Go track
TQ29m Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 6,572	Scott, I always hear "needs more stagger", when as you say, the car turns in good, but wants to push coming off, moving the LR out an inch, will sometimes make the stagger problem go away. I'm not one to get too far from what "works" most of the time, and especially if the motor's down a little bit, hard to drive one with a bad "heart"! That's my 2 cents worth, for what I know about it! Bob __________________ "Being old, isn't half as much fun, as getting there"! Ole Robert I!

2/25/10, 1:55 AM	#1 Setup Help on Stop and Go track
BX7BB0 Posts: n/a	Hey, I run a tight, stop and go type 1/4 mile dirt track with a winged 360 sprint. I seem to have a lot of trouble hooking up coming out of the corner. In addition to the very tight turning radius, the dirt in the track has a sandy compostion, making traction that much tougher to find. I can't find a lot of setup information for a track of this type, is there any specific area of the setup that I need to focus on? I'm running 1025 bars on the left, 1000 on the right, wing typically further back than at other tracks. Thanks for any ideas.

2/25/10, 5:11 AM	#2 Re: Setup Help on Stop and Go track
dant Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 191	dri bar

2/25/10, 11:15 AM	#3 Re: Setup Help on Stop and Go track
v8j Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Posts: 591	the gains of the Dri-Bar come from several directions.First we must realize that with the traditional set up the R.R. torsion bar is required to do 2 separate jobs.the first 1 is controlling the compression of the race car vertically.The second is controlling the horizontal roll of the race car.with the traditional set-up the sping rate is significantly stiffer in the compression direction than it needs to be,which reduces the forward bite. By allowing the Dri-Bar to control the roll of the race car,we can soften the RR torsion bar improving the forward bit. at the same time this increases the reverse split of the rear spring rate. which in turns improves the LR drive as well.the other gain is that unlike LR rebound to control weight transfer,with the Dri-Bar.when the weight has been transferred,the stored energy created by winding up the Dri-Bar puts the car back onto the left rear to drive off harder.the final gain is the ability to adjust the spring rate of the system from the cockpit.By balancing the car with the adjustment handle in the center selection, the driver can pull the handle back to stiffen the rate with a full fuel load or a rough race track,and move the handle forward and this will soften the rate.as the fuel burns off or the grip of the track is reduced. I hope this information can help you. if you need you can contact the Dri-Bar guys at (317)486-9710

2/25/10, 2:15 PM	#5 Re: Setup Help on Stop and Go track
Geoff Kaiser Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 662	Scott, whats the old saying..."pushy loose".

2/27/10, 8:25 PM	#7 Re: Setup Help on Stop and Go track
flipalong Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 128	In my opinion I would try to soften the right rear and see if that helps. Don't try to much at once or you might not know if your adjustments helped or hendered you. Also check your throttle throw if it is to short it is kinda like a on/off button and you can't control wheel spin, make sure you have as much as you feel comfortable with.

2/28/10, 1:24 AM	#8 Re: Setup Help on Stop and Go track
LEADERS EDGE Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 980	The point about the throttle is a good one. Bar split is interesting in terms that some guys really like it and some don't.

3/25/10, 10:35 PM	#9 Re: Setup Help on Stop and Go track
Pod Man Posts: n/a	Try taking as much stagger out of the car as possible until it will not turn. Then move the RR out until it does. Moving LR in and out is not going to do much considering a stop and go track. Also try to put some rebound in the front shocks to allow the car to transfer its weight back onto the rear as you exit.