[Copperhead]

We're looking to get into UMP-style modified racing in the next year or so, and I was wondering if any of you guys could give us some pointers. We're pretty experienced with open wheel cars (Sprints, Mini Sprints, TQ's, etc), but we don't know a tremendous amount about the nuts and bolts of the modifieds. We will likely try to find a solid used car and build on the program over the course of a few years. We don't have to start out of the gate with the best of the best, but we'd like to avoid bringing a donkey to the derby as well.

What's the differnce in 3-bar cars, 4-bar cars, j bars, z links, pull bars? I gather that a 4 bar car is the way to go, but I see all these terms in the classified ads and I'm not sure what all we're talking about.

Is it a simple swap to switch a car from a regular 9" to a Quick Change?

Best brands of chassis to work with?

How long can you make a set of tires last?

How tough of a motor do you have to have under the hood to be competitve in the IN, IL, KY, OH scenes? I've seen a number of modified races where a guy with an obvious lack of motor has kept it hooked up and smooth, and done extremely well.

So basically anything I need to look for or stay away from when looking for a starter car, motor, etc. Any tips and advice would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks!

Scotty Orme
Racecar Driver / Co-Owner
Randy Orme Racing

[the_77H]

Get ya a Nemesis Race Car

But really, on these 1/4s around here I don't think a big motor makes a HUGE difference, especially when it slicks off.

And I'll usually get a new RR every 2-3 weeks, and maybe a new LR once a month and just rotate them forward as they wear. That's just me, a lot of guys get new rubber a lot more frequently.

Depending on the chassis you get you can switch between 4 bar, z-link, swingarm. I'm on a 4-bar.

I'm still fairly new at this, so I still have a ton to learn. Maybe Kenny C will give some input.

[cjaxx1987]

3bar, 4bar and z-link are all types of suspension chassis mounts. Like you said 4bar is the way to go simply due to the amount of bite you can get out of them. But then again you can buy a chassis with mounts for all three types of those suspensions.

A jbar on a modified acts as your "jacobs Ladder" on a sprint car.

A pull bar and a lift bar are both suspension components that mount to rear end and chassis which are used to increase forward bite. Depending on the chassis you go with will usaully determine what you run.

As far as swithing to a q.c. from a stock 9" you may be ok just all depends on the birdcages being used.

Best brands of chassis would be a Pierce, Rocket or a Diamond. Pierce would be a great starter car due to the avaialabilty of the cars (been around a while & cheap). Rockets and diamonds are newer cars on the RISE!

Tires will depend on the types of track you run. But a rf will last a month or two, lf all year, lr & rr 3-4 nights depending on tire comounds ran.

600hp motor would be good and competitive.

[SlideJob Jones]

Mods are hands down, the only division that makes any sense anymore. Cars are cheap enough, motors arent terribly priced, tires and wheels are cheaper than sprints.

Chassis companies, Shaw, Rocket by Ruhlman (gonna be pricey but worth it), Lightning, Impressive, Diamond are all good cars.

Just remember, a Dry Slick track is a 4 bar playground.

Basically in a nutshell here is your breakdowns of "suspensions"

4-bar, both trailing arms go towards the front of the car, probably the most radical of the suspensions and heard that is tough for a driver to get used to, but its gonna hook up best in the slick, or somewhere that you need alot of forward.

Z-link is where the lower trailing arm comes back from the the front of the rear end to the bottom of the axle. The upper arm goes ontop of the axle on your birdcage and runs towards the back of the car. Spring is ontop, forward or behind the rear end.

Swingarm, same theroy as z-link, but the spring is mounted on the front trailing arm. Very good stuff to have in the heavy track conditions. (Rayburn late models)

600 horse I dont think is going to cut it. Hell the Super Streets are getting close to that number with 4 barrels. If you want a good option on some cheap horsepower, look at Mullins Race Engines. 23 degree head stuff (dont let that scare you), they run upfront all the time, and I believe are the winning-est motor building company in modifieds in the United States. I have a friend that runs at Limaland and he has a 383 Mullins, and is not down in the horsepower department. I believe a new motor is like 12-14k?

I cant say for modifieds how long tires last, we used 7 tires this year, and got about 13 races in for our stock car. I know guys that put new RR's on every night.

Just my thoughts.

PS: Panhard bar will consist of the "shorty bar", which runs from the left side of the frame to the left side of the axle on a bracket on the rear end gear (if 9 inch rear end). Rediculously reactive. "J-bar" is a bar that goes from the left side of the frame, overtop the driveshaft and bolts to the right side of the pinion also attached to a bracket on the gear. (Not sure how a quick change works, never dealt with one). There is also a very rarely used Long panhard bar. Ours was behind the rear end, bolted from the left side of the chassis, to a bracket on the right axle tube on almost the far side of the housing. Not very reactive, and slows all the motions way down. I would say the most commonly Ive seen used is the shorty bar.

I know alot of guys that run quick changes, gears are cheaper. However, I do know alot of guys that run the standard 9 inch floaters, as they are lighter, but your gear selection is much more expensive and limited.

Hope this helps!

[Copperhead]

Thank you all very much for taking the time to give me some information. It's much appreciated!!! If anybody else has info, tips, or opinions, please chime in. Also, is anyone familiar with Laser Chassis?

Thanks!

Scotty

[cjaxx1987]

If you plan on running 1/4 to 3/8 mile tracks 600 hp would be good. We have won more races with our 600hp motor than our 714hp (15 degree) motor. Laser cars are ok, there are a lot that run at Waynesfield. We run a Rocket chassis 4 bar car with a J bar, it was worth the $$$.

[wallbanger II]

slide job has got the swing arm bars reversed.
find a used perice or lighting, good help from Donnie at lighting.
9 inch ford uses less horsepower. ok if you only run 1 track or once a week.

wallbangerii 25years with mods 50 years racing

[MCCLARA45M]

I would just recommend that when buying a car go with a car brand that has had some kind of success instead of a one off car that you cant get any help or tech support for. There are some really good cars out there that aint as popular as other brands that are fast but usually those are drivin by someone that has experience and knows how to get them to go fast without someone to help them. Also remember that you get what you pay for with racecars, meaning that if you find one for dirt cheap than make sure it is straight and has all the parts you are gonna need. If possible try to take someone you know with you to look at the car if you find one you are interested in or get as much info. about it and ask one of us about it. Most of us modified guys are always willing to give advice because we all had to start somewhere and we may not know it all, but we can usually tell ya what NOT to do. LOL Cause we have all done things we can tell others not to do or try. The motor deal is a matter of what kind of money you have to spend. 600-700 horsepower and real good parts. Now you can get by with other stuff most of the time, but you just need reliability of good parts because most guys turn atleast 7500 rpms or more..

[kylezero]

Get on Afcos page it breaks down all the suspension types. If your not real serious about being super fast buy a swing arm car to get your feet wet. Then opt to go 4bar 4bar. Buy a chassis that has good local support. Donnie at lightning is great help and has great setup sheets. And Kramer will always help when he can. I would stay away from the lasers. Shaw would be another good car as Kevin Shaw is good help as well... make sure you get scales too they are a big part of setup. If you need any more info send me a pm and ill give you my phone number

[Copperhead]

I thoroughly appreciate everyone's replies and willingness to help! As I work towards modifieds, I'll probably get in contact with some of you guys as come across things.