1. Spirit and Intent of Rules
The spirit and intent of these rules is to provide for a cost effective form of Pavement Midget Racing utilizing chassis and designs derived from Dirt Midget Racing. Any attempt to circumvent the spirit and intent of these rules, as determined by the Chief Steward, will result in disqualification. The main components which will be allowed to be changed or added from dirt to pavement include; wheels, front axle, front brakes, shocks, springs, radius rod mounting location, mounting location of rear arms on bird cages, rear panhard bar. All other additions or subtractions must be pre-approved.
2. Dimensions and Weight
a. The minimum wheel base is required to be at least 71 inches and no more than 72 inches.
b. The overall maximum tread width is 65 inches.
c. The maximum engine setback is 34 inches as measured from the front of the motor plate, at the height of the centerline of the torque ball housing, to the center of the rear axle at its farthest point.
d. The maximum rear offset is six (6) inches as measured from the center of the rear end to the inside of the rear wheels.
e. The minimum weight of car with driver is 1,100 (lbs) pounds.
f. Ballast must be placed between the front axle and rear axle no higher than mid rails at the cockpit. Ballast must be fastened to the chassis or motor plate with a minimum of four (4) Grade 8 bolts. All bolts holding ballast without a nylon lock nut must be safety wired.
3. Car Construction
a. Chassis must be constructed so as both right and left bottom frame rails remain on the same plane from the center of the front axle to the center of the rear axle. (No raised rails between axles.)
b. Engine offset is limited to left of chassis centerline. Engine may be offset a maximum one (1) inch (two inches overall) from the chassis centerline.
c. Driver must be seated behind the engine and on the centerline of the chassis. No offset or angle mounted seats are permitted.
d. Z-link type rear suspension having one radius rod and one torsion arm per side is required. Coil over or torsion bar suspension may be used. Rear coil overs must attach to the rear torsion arms. Either a jacob’s ladder (watts link) or a panhard bar is permitted.
e. Anti-roll bars will not be permitted.
f. Where applicable, front and rear torsion bars must be perpendicular to the driveshaft.
g. No pushrod rocker arm style front suspension allowed. Coil over or torsion bar front suspension is required.
h. All cars must be left hand steer. No rack and pinion steering allowed.
i. No aerodynamic devices of any kind. What constitutes an aerodynamic device is at the sole discretion of the Director of Competition and/or Chief Steward.
Let the roasting begin..........The one thing I have always been told is don't complain if you can't offer a solution. The engine situation in Badger has brought down engine costs significantly, and now I wanted to share my ideas for pavement Midget racing.
I like. It is a starting place. Anxious to hear what others have to say. I hope it is not too late. Who would be willing to step out of the box and move this along?
Affordable and racing? Those 2 words don't go together when taking about racing. MONEY always wins the race. Dirt Cars are dirt cars Pavement cars are pavement cars. ARDC ran both for many years and you couldn't change cars the same car had to be used. With that said it was a disaster all the times they drove pavement.
The chassis for dirt cars are not conducive to pavement and it makes for VERY BAD RACING. A lot of accidents and flips which again equates to money and not Affordable
Originally Posted by nodoors:
Affordable and racing? Those 2 words don't go together when taking about racing. MONEY always wins the race. Dirt Cars are dirt cars Pavement cars are pavement cars. ARDC ran both for many years and you couldn't change cars the same car had to be used. With that said it was a disaster all the times they drove pavement.
The chassis for dirt cars are not conducive to pavement and it makes for VERY BAD RACING. A lot of accidents and flips which again equates to money and not Affordable
I disagree with virtually everything you said. Midget racing used the same cars on both dirt and pavement for many more years than they used separate cars for each (clear into the early 90s). The argument could be made that the racing was better during those years.
Originally Posted by Ray3:
I disagree with virtually everything you said. Midget racing used the same cars on both dirt and pavement for many more years than they used separate cars for each (clear into the early 90s). The argument could be made that the racing was better during those years.
If it was as you say good racing then Why did the Chassis Mfgs come out with 2 Chassis 1 for Dirt and 1 for pavement? So I think your idea of it was good racing back then is Null and Void at this point. I experienced it personally and Dirt Chassis on Pavement was a disaster but that was all there was for Midgets back then
I think Ray3 is making the combo car competitive again on pavement by not having to compete with the special pavement chassis. I would like to see some sanction body pick up on this idea and make it work. There was a time when the same car was used on dirt and pavement with minor changes such as what Ray3 has suggested. Owners would run pavement Friday night. Make the changes and run dirt on Saturday with the same chassis.
Originally Posted by nodoors:
Affordable and racing? Those 2 words don't go together when taking about racing. MONEY always wins the race. Dirt Cars are dirt cars Pavement cars are pavement cars. ARDC ran both for many years and you couldn't change cars the same car had to be used. With that said it was a disaster all the times they drove pavement.
The chassis for dirt cars are not conducive to pavement and it makes for VERY BAD RACING. A lot of accidents and flips which again equates to money and not Affordable
Nodoors trolling again or just being a contrarian purely for its own sake. On earlier post saw almost no problem changing wing to non-wing.
We were able to take a Twister dirt midget and make it not only competitive but actual faster than a Beast Pavement midget cars running with the Illini Racing Series. So Yes, you can totally do this and I have proof, about a dozen feature wins to back up my statement. The main differences are placement of the motor and the suspension pickup points are raised to correct for the suspension geometry at the correct ride height. It's all creating and policing the rules. Illini midgets use a D2 based rule package and a harder compound tire to put the emphasis on driving and handling versus HP.
Do I think pavement cars have an design advantage with weight placement? Yes i do, can you create a rules package to equalize the two? You bet ya.
The first 2.4L OEM based Midget Club that successfully figures out an rule package to equate a dirt car to a pavement car "Makes pavement midget racing great again!" But there is going to have to be some left side and front weight, ride height rules to equate the two chassis, so it's simple enough for dirt guy to take a chance on trying it.
Why? I think that midget racing on pavement is like midget racing on big tracks. A thing of the past. Lets enjoy the rebirth of midget racing on dirt. Lets enjoy having national and D2 midget groups. Lets not try to recreate the past that we will never get.
