[PatrickMead#13]

I was thinking of putting a second car together for my dad to try it. He's a big guy so I know my car was out. I was thinking of machining a spacer to move the sprocket outside the frame rails from the counter shaft so he could get all the cockpit room as possible by moving the chain outside the car bit still keeping the engine where the rules specify. Is anyone else already doing this setup or similar deal? The only thing I'm thinking might be the fly in the ointment is the counter shaft bearings in the block. Or I thought of doing a dwarf car driveshaft to a quick change and sealing off the shaft in the cockpit seams as the motor already has a hawk driveshaft adaptor on it.

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[DAD]

Originally Posted by Aftermidnight I was thinking of putting a second car together for my dad to try it. He's a big guy so I know my car was out. I was thinking of machining a spacer to move the sprocket outside the frame rails from the counter shaft so he could get all the cockpit room as possible by moving the chain outside the car bit still keeping the engine where the rules specify. Is anyone else already doing this setup or similar deal? The only thing I'm thinking might be the fly in the ointment is the counter shaft bearings in the block. Or I thought of doing a dwarf car driveshaft to a quick change and sealing off the shaft in the cockpit seams as the motor already has a hawk driveshaft adaptor on it. Posted via Mobile Device

Back in the old days they built a short drive shaft that either bolted to the counter shaft or was connected with a double row chain flexible connector. then they put an outboard bearing to support the shaft and ran the chain outside the chassis. It worked fine.

Might get Steve Smiths mini-sprint book from Speed Partz Steve shows other ways to do it also. I think I introduced Larry to that book many many years ago.

You know if they would allow A/C and oxygen I might try racing also.

Honest Dad himself

[PatrickMead#13]

Originally Posted by DAD Back in the old days they built a short drive shaft that either bolted to the counter shaft or was connected with a double row chain flexible connector. then they put an outboard bearing to support the shaft and ran the chain outside the chassis. It worked fine. Might get Steve Smiths mini-sprint book from Speed Partz Steve shows other ways to do it also. I think I introduced Larry to that book many many years ago. You know if they would allow A/C and oxygen I might try racing also. Honest Dad himself

Great book that's for sure

And the a/c thing could work. Go with a small ammonia system and use the header heat as your power source and pipe it into an evaporator that could be part of the seat. 100* days and a frosted seat......

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[DAD]

Originally Posted by Aftermidnight Great book that's for sure And the a/c thing could work. Go with a small ammonia system and use the header heat as your power source and pipe it into an evaporator that could be part of the seat. 100* days and a frosted seat...... Posted via Mobile Device

Huh??? Bet that's EPA approved.

Honest Dad himself

[PatrickMead#13]

Same setup as a propane refrigerator in most campers. Very small amount of ammonia will do it

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[DAD]

Sounds good to me. Now all we need is an O2 system for this "robust" driver. With Ammonia as a refrigerant I can see another use for that O2 mask in case of a crash, poor infield workers.

I would probably work better in a 1000cc Champ Car.

Honest Dad himself

[Bradleyracing86]

I've got a chassis that will accomadate a 17" seat.

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[PatrickMead#13]

Got any pics?

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[DAD]

For the racer looking for a quick-change /drive shaft motorcycle powered midget this guy has what you need. I did not know that they even existed.

Several Hank Scott Hyabusa powered Kenyon cars see them on EBAY Item # 281031266551. These are just what Papa Outlaw was talking about.

He calls them "METRIC MIDGETS" I kinda of like that.

Honest Dad himself

[Bradleyracing86]

Sure float me your email.

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