[FNG]

Ok guys, new to the forum here but I've been around sprinters for a while. I've been kicking around the idea of putting an engine together and getting a car together slowly. Money is a subject but I COMPLETELY understand that racing is NOT CHEAP. When I ask these engine questions, I am NOT trying to do it as cheap as possible just wondering were money should be spent. I am not looking to build a USAC caliber engine. Just a local -12 steel block 410.

Here's my thoughts on a -12 steel block. New Dart Little M or SHP block depending on horsepower calculations. New forged crank. High quality rods and pistons.Top all that off with a set of NICE used -12 heads and injection.

First question is about Dry Sump oil systems...... Is a Dry Sump mostly used due to its scavenging capability? Again, I am not looking to build a USAC engine here and don't really mind a little air and oil around the crankshaft lol. I see the Racesaver guys running a Wet Sump, oval track pan small block water pump and high quality balancer. Is a Wet Sump "good enough" for a 410 engine build? Or do these high RPM engines require a Dry Sump oil system. As mentioned before, I'm not looking for a fire breathing 850 hp monster. Just a nice and reliable 12 head steely.

I could be completely off on the thoughts of running a Wet Sump system on a 410 and if I am please don't be afraid to say so. With the modified guys and 305 guys running it I thought that might be a way to save a few dollars on an engine build.

Thanks in advance!

[brettgrace]

A guy I help down here in NZ has a steel 410 in one of his drive school cars, 23 degree heads and wet sump. Never gives any trouble, we turn it between 7000 - 7500. Don't see why you can't do something similar.

[TQ29m]

The advantage of a dry sump is the engine has a constant supply of oil that has been allowed to stay in one spot long enough to get most of the air out of it, I ran tests on a tilt table,on various engines, to find the best place to put vents, on an engine with an oil pan, at some RPM, the gear drive for the cam, would just rip the oil right out of the pan, and for a while, it was on top of the heads, it was unbelievable how quickly that would happen, and for an instant you have no oil pressure, after being a part of that testing, I will always run a dry sump. Jmho. Bob

[FNG]

Appreciate the input guys! Bob, do you remember the RPM range where you noticed the issues you reported? As the other poster mentioned, if we twisted it around 7500 do you think we would see the issues you have mentioned?

[TQ29m]

It really never repeated, sometimes it was on the way up, sometimes down, sometimes at steady state, I had put Plex windows in the pan, so we could video what was going on, it was an experience to watch, and then try to find out where the vents worked best. I could tilt the table as much as 45* in 2 directions, but that was not needed. Bob

[sprinter31]

Most Of the 305 guys are running an oil accumulator, Keep pressure to the bearings at all times. We have never lost a bottom end running one. Dry sump is the way to go but poor people got poor ways, an accumulator will get you by.

[TQ29m]

That's what I'd do it I couldn't find the beans for a system. Bob

[red70racer]

We ran a wet sump on our 360 wing & non wing with zero oil issues
The key is a good pan with trap doors and the correct pickup
Do not use a high volume pump, it can suck all the oil out on a long straight
We always used a stock melling pump and shimmed the spring to give it more pressure
Dry dump is nice but not a necessary

[motorhead748]

I ran a wet dump 410 for years, even ran my first aluminum block wet sump until the funds were there to convert it to dry.

[FNG]

Thanks guys! Really appreciate all the info!!