inboard sprint brake setup

jhobbs26 · 8/26/14, 12:22 PM

What pads work the best that wont over heat the rotors easily?

Are there better cast iron rotors better than others?

I had new hawk black pads and a speedway motors scalloped .810 rotor with 2 races on it and I left it all in turn 1 when it exploded.

TQ29m · 8/26/14, 12:39 PM

Good question! I gave up on cast rotors a long while ago, I've had them wear at an angle, and all sorts of strange things. The very first one I had, I still carry as a spare, for someone else. I'd suggest making sure you aren't riding the pedal, maybe a stronger spring will help, I didn't realize I was riding it myself. Myself, I run a drilled, .375 steel, with the pads they recommend, and try not to use them anymore than necessary, you can scrub speed going in, as you know, just by setting the car a few feet sooner, course if your in the wind by yourself, you will probably have a cool rotor after the feature! Brakes really take a beating on a short track, so just adjust your driving a bit. I think cast expands too much, is maybe part of the problem, but every one has their favorite setup! Bob

treecitytornado · 8/26/14, 1:02 PM

Run an .810 cast iron rotor that hasn't been cut on at all! Run the Wilwood 15B Pads or the new BP40 pads are great too! Great pedal all the time! Use the Wilwood 600 plus fluid too! Titanium rotors won't have the positive feel of a good ole cast iron rotor! Even Wilwood will tell you that!

jhobbs26 · 8/26/14, 2:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TQ29m

Brakes really take a beating on a short track, so just adjust your driving a bit. I think cast expands too much, is maybe part of the problem, but every one has their favorite setup! Bob

You might be on to something here. I put brand new hawk pads in for last Saturday night and I had to completely push the pistons all the way in to get the pads in. No room for expansion if the cast rotor expands like you say. I noticed in my heat race video the rear rotor was glowing some and I wasn't using the brake very much. I'm wondering if there is just too much pad material on these hawk pads.

I have a caliper for the .35 rotor and a titanium rotor. I took it off because some of the coating is coming off. Who do I send it to, to have it recoated?

TQ29m · 8/26/14, 2:37 PM

Me, I'd save some money, and pick up a steel rotor, I'm just not a big believer in titanium, or aluminum for that matter, true, they are lighter, but you never know when they decide to leave you without any warning, but then I'm just a low budget racer, there are a lot of things I don't worry much about, the latest, and the lightest! Bob

badcoupe · 8/26/14, 9:41 PM

I run a .810 scalloped chromoly rotor no issues. Sounds like you had it hanging up or as mentioned too thick a brake pad. I use the standard wilwood pads and make sure the brake doesn't hang up. Are you using a floating or fixed rotor hub?

jhobbs26 · 8/27/14, 9:25 AM

I was using a winters floating hub, el-cheap-o speedway motors $56 12" scalloped rotor, wilwood caliper and hawk black brake pads.

I'm pretty sure the rotor got hung up and there was still a large piece of rotor wedge in between the two pads. I had to beat it out.

I got 2 brake setups when I bought this car. Last night I installed the winters magnesium clamp mount with a ben cook titanium .35" rotor and a DMI narrow caliper. Now I need a set of brake pads for this rotor i'll have to order from speedway motors, or pick up from our local parts supplier Precise Race Products.

TQ29m · 8/27/14, 10:29 AM

I tried a floater rotor clamp, didn't impress me either, really worked the splines on the axle over in just one night of running, and I personally don't care for the scalloped rotors either, they look cool, but if you follow them thru the pads, they also tend to push the pads front to back a gazillion times in a lap, that has to be hard on pcs, also, about 8 out of 10 times, on a new set of pads, I have to set them on parallels on the mill, and take about .010-.015 of the back of each one, to get them away from the rotor when they retract, once in a while a new set will go right in, in fact, I have to do that to a pair before the weekend, they are too thick, but we changed them at the track, and didn't bring the mill along! Also, I've started tethering the pads and caliper, sometimes they just don't like each other, and leave, at least with the tethers, most times I just reunite them. Bob

8/26/14, 12:39 PM	#2 Re: inboard sprint brake setup
TQ29m Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 6,212	Good question! I gave up on cast rotors a long while ago, I've had them wear at an angle, and all sorts of strange things. The very first one I had, I still carry as a spare, for someone else. I'd suggest making sure you aren't riding the pedal, maybe a stronger spring will help, I didn't realize I was riding it myself. Myself, I run a drilled, .375 steel, with the pads they recommend, and try not to use them anymore than necessary, you can scrub speed going in, as you know, just by setting the car a few feet sooner, course if your in the wind by yourself, you will probably have a cool rotor after the feature! Brakes really take a beating on a short track, so just adjust your driving a bit. I think cast expands too much, is maybe part of the problem, but every one has their favorite setup! Bob __________________ "Being old, isn't half as much fun, as getting there"! Ole Robert I! _________________________________________________ Last edited by TQ29m; 8/26/14 at 1:13 PM.

8/26/14, 2:37 PM	#5 Re: inboard sprint brake setup
TQ29m Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 6,212	Me, I'd save some money, and pick up a steel rotor, I'm just not a big believer in titanium, or aluminum for that matter, true, they are lighter, but you never know when they decide to leave you without any warning, but then I'm just a low budget racer, there are a lot of things I don't worry much about, the latest, and the lightest! Bob __________________ "Being old, isn't half as much fun, as getting there"! Ole Robert I!

8/27/14, 9:25 AM	#7 Re: inboard sprint brake setup
jhobbs26 Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Posts: 29	I was using a winters floating hub, el-cheap-o speedway motors $56 12" scalloped rotor, wilwood caliper and hawk black brake pads. I'm pretty sure the rotor got hung up and there was still a large piece of rotor wedge in between the two pads. I had to beat it out. I got 2 brake setups when I bought this car. Last night I installed the winters magnesium clamp mount with a ben cook titanium .35" rotor and a DMI narrow caliper. Now I need a set of brake pads for this rotor i'll have to order from speedway motors, or pick up from our local parts supplier Precise Race Products. _________________________________________________ Last edited by jhobbs26; 8/27/14 at 9:34 AM.

8/27/14, 10:29 AM	#8 Re: inboard sprint brake setup
TQ29m Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 6,212	I tried a floater rotor clamp, didn't impress me either, really worked the splines on the axle over in just one night of running, and I personally don't care for the scalloped rotors either, they look cool, but if you follow them thru the pads, they also tend to push the pads front to back a gazillion times in a lap, that has to be hard on pcs, also, about 8 out of 10 times, on a new set of pads, I have to set them on parallels on the mill, and take about .010-.015 of the back of each one, to get them away from the rotor when they retract, once in a while a new set will go right in, in fact, I have to do that to a pair before the weekend, they are too thick, but we changed them at the track, and didn't bring the mill along! Also, I've started tethering the pads and caliper, sometimes they just don't like each other, and leave, at least with the tethers, most times I just reunite them. Bob __________________ "Being old, isn't half as much fun, as getting there"! Ole Robert I!

8/26/14, 12:22 PM	#1 inboard sprint brake setup
jhobbs26 Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Posts: 29	What pads work the best that wont over heat the rotors easily? Are there better cast iron rotors better than others? I had new hawk black pads and a speedway motors scalloped .810 rotor with 2 races on it and I left it all in turn 1 when it exploded.

8/26/14, 1:02 PM	#3
treecitytornado Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 4,016	Run an .810 cast iron rotor that hasn't been cut on at all! Run the Wilwood 15B Pads or the new BP40 pads are great too! Great pedal all the time! Use the Wilwood 600 plus fluid too! Titanium rotors won't have the positive feel of a good ole cast iron rotor! Even Wilwood will tell you that!

8/26/14, 9:41 PM	#6
badcoupe Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 949	I run a .810 scalloped chromoly rotor no issues. Sounds like you had it hanging up or as mentioned too thick a brake pad. I use the standard wilwood pads and make sure the brake doesn't hang up. Are you using a floating or fixed rotor hub?