[diana]

Hello,
I need to be educated on shocks and how the valving work. We run PRO shocks
some of our shocks are single digit numbers such as 3,4,5 and some have two
digits 3-1 4-5 When I look at the bottom of the shock where the piston goes in and out
I see four screw holes with one of these numbers. Also on each shock top is another number ex. 114323
I have looked at STEVE SMITH'S mini sprint technology for a PRO shock basic setup and I get

left front 7300 right front 7300
left rear 7400 right rear 7400
I need a basic setup that I can understand and numbers that compare to my shocks.
Any help is appreciated
thank you

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[jjones752]

The "7" at the beginning of the numbers from the Steve Smith book indicates the length of the shock's stroke, and the second is the damping; since it's only one number (followed by zeroes) that means the fronts are straight 3's and the rears are straight 4's, meaning the damping is the same for both compression and rebound. Your single-digit shocks are that type of shock; the 3-1 means it's a "3" damping (or valving, those terms are interchangeable) and a "1" on rebound. That would be considered an "easy-up" which is good to use on the front when the track is dry-slick to help transfer weight to the rear. A 4-5 has stiffer rebound than compression, also called a "tiedown" (although a 4-5 would be a mild tiedown). That's often used on the left rear to help keep it planted.
I think the four "screw holes" you're referring to are actually spanner holes to take the shock apart for rebuilding.
Here's a couple of links on the Pro Shocks site:
An explanation of their part numbering
http://www.proshocks.com/rshocks/FAQ/FAQ3.htm#faq20
And a setup chart for Mini Sprints
http://www.proshocks.com/rshocks/bas...Base_Minis.htm
If you're still confused (which isn't hard), I'd suggest giving Pro Shocks a call; they could probably help steer you in the right direction; I had all of my shocks dynoed and rebuilt at Advanced and they were very helpful, even to the point of marking each shock with a paint pen to indicate what corner they went on for which track condition. I would expect similar customer service from Pro.

[cuz]

all right i have 1000 cc mini sprint i run 875 bars in front 925 lr 950 rr 3-1 pro on lf 3-1 on rf 3-7 on lr 4-5 on rr does it sound like i am in the ball park runing on 1-4 mile 4-10 mile thanks rick.

[kinser]

That sounds pretty close, if it were me I would run an 850 bar in the left front

[cuz]

ok i guss you telling me to get more weight on the rr ?

[cuz]

ok you telling me to put more on the rr

[DAD]

cuz

Bar size and shock valving are very dependent on chassis design track conditions and driving styles, for anyone to give you advice about choice first need a lot more information about your particular situation. Best done at the race track.

I once suggested to a friend of mine that he should hire himself out as a set up expert, and offer his service to racers. He would go with the racer to the track, annalize the situation and sell the racer what would be required for him to achieve the most out of his racing experience.
This would sound like an expensive deal to a lot of people but would be much cheaper in the long run.

Honest Dad himself

[TQ29m]

Ya gotta consider arm length, it is a big factor also, most folks run a bigger diameter bar on the right front, than on the left, then you can run heads up on the rear, same size both sides, because of the difference in the arm length, it will make up for it on the RR, or of coil over, same thing in front, stronger spring on RF. Just my 2 cents worth! And DAD is right, no two drivers like the same thing, like I said before, just put a setup on it that'll get you safely around the track, and work from there. Bob!

[DAD]

Tq

For a person starting out, needs to talk to their chassis builder, and get the bassic set up. When they buy a car they stand a good chance of buying stuff the last owner didn't want (DIANA). Once they get the starting point they can go from there. It won't be dead on fast but it will be in the ball park.

Spending 4 or$500.00 for a knopwledgable set up guy and another $500.00 bucks or so in equipment might be one of the best things a new racer might do. It would have sure saved me a bunch of money. I grew my own, and that is expensive.

Honest Dad himself

[cuz]

I have a 1000 cc mini sprint been running good on a semi banked 1/4 my next race is on a more flat track just wondering about set ups thanks cuz