Hello everyone I need some serious help and guidance with midget set-up. We are attempting to run the Subaru powered midget again this year. It’s a older beast chassis. My guess between 2004-2012. I’m 21 and don’t know anything when it comes to set-up, except for having a understanding of how all the parts move and work together with each other. Here’s the problem.. my dad doesn’t believe in blocking. He wants to square the rear end at ride height. At full race weight, with me in the car. From what I read you are supposed to have the rear end on 6 inch blocks with everything disconnected except for the drive line and then start the whole squaring process. I have no idea what direction to move in. My dad is very set in his ways and thinks he knows everything. I have put a lot of blood, sweat, and tears, we have gone through 3 motors.. yet we still have never figured out how to get this thing around the track. Car seems to wants to spin out, and always feels very loose, especially at placerville. I would really appreciate some guidance from someone with experience setting up a midget.

Hyper racing sells a nice squaring kit that makes it super easy. The blocks help you establish a baseline as far as ride height etc go kinda home base if you will. Do you have a set of scales? They will help you get your weight percentages correct, I’m assuming with the Subaru engine you’ll maybe need a little setup as far as torsion bars and springs go compared to a inline engine. Most people square the rear to the firewall so that the driveline is free.

I had a older beast tq that I ran till last year and got a new frame. Squaring up rear end was done with driveshaft level. Once square and ladder is free done with that. The rear rails raised up on the tq under the so my baseline blocks were only 3/4 inch in rear. 31/2 inch blocks in front. New car is built like a midget so I’m at 31/2 on front and 31/4 in rear

Did you check it for a bind once you were finished squaring it up. When the car is ready to go on the track (on the ground, driver in car) the torque ball should spin by hand in the housing, and you should be able to rattle the jacobs ladder.

Before using 6" blocks to square the rearend, you may want to call Bob East to verify the chassis year so he can tell you what squaring blocks you need to use. Depending on the year the frame is and where the kick up to the rear tubes is at will determine the squaring block size