Hello everyone : We run with a 360 club here in New England called SCoNE " sprint cars of New England . My son drives and he outweighs most all
the other drivers . My question relates to ride heights and bird cage timing . We set the car up according to the Maxim guidelines and blocked at 4 left and 3 right as it is a raised rail car but when he gets in the car ,the space between the lower left framerail and the bottom of the axle is 7+1/4 . Is the blocking height designed so that with a small driver the space should reflect the set up heights of 6 left and 5 right , therefore the bird cages would be level ?

dennis

Your blocking is probably right, your t bar size is a little small. Time for a phone call and a couple of bars.

Honest Dad himself

Just thinking out loud, if it is a raised rail car you wily want to put the smaller block on the left side of the car. The bottom left frame rail is raised 1 inch

Right Church, wrong pew! Bob

What is the angle of the rear arms with him in the car?

Josh


Probably a typo.

Bob we run .050 to .075 larger rear bars than spec. because of driver weight. I guess we could just wind them up a couple or three turns. to get arms heading in right direction. I was taught back in my QM racing days the best way to check t bar arm angles was to go to the infield and stand in the middle of the turn. Right at the apex of the turn the arms should both be parallel to the ground as the car rolls through the turn.

Honest Dad himself

Dennis

Bird cage timing is bird cage timing, drivers weight should not affect that part of the equation. Adjust your car with ride height. Block it as you are told 3" on left tube and 4" on right tube. Get a 150 to 175 pound driver to set in seat, measure ride height (frame to level ground both sides below axle. Install the real driver and either crank the bars up to get same ride height or install larger bars (best solution) until you get same ride height, then your bird cages will also be in time if you adjusted them at original ride height.

Back in my young days when I enjoyed working on race cars we used to change rear bars at least twice a night. Keeping the blocks the same and going smaller on bars as the race track slicked off, now we might maybe turn a few screws.

Honest Dad himself

Sorry misswrote , we do block the left side 3 amd the right side 4 . I will check the arm angles . Assuming I should check them with the driver . What angle should we be looking for ? Also we ARE going to stiffer bars .

Dennis

Check them at ride height, they vary chassis to chassis, Left side may be a tad up in the front right side a tad down, we also adjust this angle from tacky to dry slick. On tacky tracks we like to have the tires pushing over the radius rods on slick tracks we want the tires driving under the radius rods. Thus the multiple radius rod holes in some chassis designs.

Honest Dad himself

Thanks DAD