[Jcpelly]

Originally Posted by Aces&Eights I appreciate all your input and I apologize if our wires got crossed. Actually from a power to weight ratio of an RS305 sprint vs our Limited Lates, they may still be the fastest thing on the track, down here. I have no idea what an E-mod is, LOL. Your story is encouraging and worth considering and like I said I'm gathering info, looking at what works and what doesn't. They introduced the CT525 in late models down here about 5 or 6 years ago, gave it a weight break and a taller spoiler and in the right conditions(Dry Slick) with an above average driver(Ronnie Johnson) it was wining some(something like 5 or 6) races against the open comp supers. Several series adopted rules to allow it and the future looked bright and the prospect of reviving weekly Super Late model seemed possible... Within 1 year the Open Comp drivers had lobbied hard enough that ALL the series rolled back the rules and put the CT525 on even par with open comp engines, same weight, same spoiler, just has a 350HP deficit to Open Comp. Next it looked like maybe Limited Late would be the home for the CT525, but no, fears of traction control hidden in the controller and absurd rumors of whiz kids with lap tops hacking the box and telling the engine exactly how much power to make resulted in further rules removing the coil packs/controller and adding #100 of weight to the front of the car as well as a 100HP deficit in power to the steel head cars... So now if you want to race a CT525 and not get run out of town on a rail you have to travel with either Nesmith or FAST series. The CT525 is a great engine and I myself don't have irrational fears of traction control and Millennial's using apps on smart phones to adjust the HP to whatever number they want, but some less sophisticated folks do, sadly. The reason we have a 602 Sportsman Late model class is because so many racers became convinced that "Blue Printing" a 604 gave it 85-100HP more than the out of the box ones, even with a prominent engine builder dynoing every single one to show them. Didn't matter, they wanted blue printing(rebuilding to spec) outlawed, but when they couldn't get that, they split and started a 602 only class with no rebuilding allowed, ever. I'm so frustrated I have trouble mustering the enthusiasm to even go most weeks... Then I discovered Non-Wing sprints on the Dirty 30 show and I was reinvigorated. I don't know what the end solution will be. Check out these videos, they all have starters, transmissions and batteries. North East Wingless Sprints https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0b4XwWedJXQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iyu18WQruP4 Is an RS305 that high on compression? When I first got started working on DLM's back in 86' we used mags, w/starters without issue... Check out these videos, they all have starters, transmissions and batteries. North East Wingless Sprints https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0b4XwWedJXQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iyu18WQruP4 I'm in Georgia, No Sprints. I'm planning to be patient zero. Why? A budget as of yet has not been established, that's why I'm asking so many questions. Are you of the opinion I shouldn't bother?

When we started the Traditional Sprint program in 2011 I bought a 2000 dollar Stealth roller and added a 2500 dollar SBC 360 motor I took out of my Wissota superstock, so for less than 5000 you could have a car on the track that would give a taste of what these things are. That is the silver/black/green #1 car in the UMSS videos from 2011. Now as the class has gotten more competitive it would probably cost you in the range of 10,000-15,000 to have a car and engine that can compete up front.

[6565]

As far as starters go- keep in mind that mechanical injection does not have squirters like a carb. When cranking the engine, if you try to 'pump the gas' to help it-it just gulps air and no fuel. It can be done by cranking & holding throttle open to get enough fuel, but that is tricky if inexperienced to not get a big rev immediately. Can also crank with throttle open and switch off for a few seconds, than turn switch on-again can be tricky. if it's cold, very easy to flood it and hydraulic the engine or break the starter. Not always as simple & easy as just adding an on board battery & starting mechanism.

[TQ29m]

This is indeed a big factor, I've found that by using 2, 12 volt batteries, and hitting the starter with 24v, a start may be accomplished, but don't bet on it, as I said before, with the amount of lead in the advance, you can just as easily detonate an engine, the speed necessary to safely make an engine light off, cannot be done with a starter, it sometimes isn't possible by a push start, if the pusher doesn't get his/her foot in it right away, you could hydraulic the engine, and break it before you get off the push truck, again, JMHO! Bob

[copper14]

when we ran midgets we had a quad 4 with a starter.we warmed the engine up, shut it off, put it in gear, pushed the button and it started easily and drove away.i think a crate motor is your answer but I m no expert.we ran midgets at morris ill and they started a sprint class.we ran 2 midgets and the sprint every night.crowds love the v8 sprints and parts are cheap.go for it and keep us posted .good luck

[Aces&Eights]

Originally Posted by motorhead748 Why? A budget as of yet has not been established, that's why I'm asking so many questions. Are you of the opinion I shouldn't bother? No, not at all. I'd say go for it if that's what you want. But I will add that I owned, drove and paid about 98% of the bills on my own car for 20 years. I was able to win some races & track championships on a budget that most would consider not enough to race hobby stocks. So I am acutely aware of the expense involved. It's just hard for me to fathom putting 2 cars together and let people play in them in hopes it will spur some interest, all while knowing that if I did get a track interested the purse is more than likely going to be minimal.

I don't know what else to do, maybe attempt to start a club or group and put on some exhibitions. The only reason I pondered building 2 and letting drivers try them out is because that how the "NEWS" guys did it 2 years ago(North East Wingless Sprints). Listen I know most everything about these cars is appalling to diehard Indy Sprint dudes, w/starters, batteries, carburetors and transmissions, but it seems sellable in order to build a sprint car foundation here. Otherwise I don't see another way, people have tried just proposing stuff, but it goes no where. That's why I thought if they could see, feel, touch, drive and ask questions maybe it'd kick things off. I'm not expecting to show up every week with 2 cars and let folks race them(screw that!), but if they want to turn a few laps after the nights racing, maybe thats way.

[Aces&Eights]

Originally Posted by 6565 As far as starters go- keep in mind that mechanical injection does not have squirters like a carb. When cranking the engine, if you try to 'pump the gas' to help it-it just gulps air and no fuel. It can be done by cranking & holding throttle open to get enough fuel, but that is tricky if inexperienced to not get a big rev immediately. Can also crank with throttle open and switch off for a few seconds, than turn switch on-again can be tricky. if it's cold, very easy to flood it and hydraulic the engine or break the starter. Not always as simple & easy as just adding an on board battery & starting mechanism.

Ah-hah, now thats the kinda info I need, he!! I don't know jack about an injected sprint. Keep the info coming.
I've been on Alky-diggers looking around too. How do they start them tractor pulling things with injection?

[Aces&Eights]

Ok, I've got another question, lets say I drop the whole trans/starter deal, I know that'll make a bunch of folks super happy, how do you guys start the car in the shop to like adjust valves and what not? I mean I guess if you have a bunch of acreage you could push it off in the yard, but...

[TQ29m]

Recoil starter, ja ever notice how big one guy on the team is! Bob

[ChanceDHolley]

Originally Posted by Aces&Eights Ok, I've got another question, lets say I drop the whole trans/starter deal, I know that'll make a bunch of folks super happy, how do you guys start the car in the shop to like adjust valves and what not? I mean I guess if you have a bunch of acreage you could push it off in the yard, but...

Speaking from personal experience, we rely on friends with a gravel driveway long enough to get it running. In the past our shop was way out in the country and we could start it on the road without the neighbors or sheriff getting mad, although that did once lead to a rather tragic incident involving a border collie. I'm not sure how other teams deal with this, I guess just resourcefulness and relationships if they don't own a suitable location.

[motorhead748]

I seldom started the car at home..