Are there any RPM limits for the versions of midget racing that run OEM blocks, heads, & cranks (can't call them "D2", cuz not everyone does)?

Seriously though, whats the RPM ranges for these things? Ones with stock rods, maybe bolts, ones with aftermarket parts, etc.

All the OEM engines will spin faster than they can breathe- I'm guessing the bottom end will take 7500 or so on any of these without issue. The real issue is spending that much time bouncing on the rev limiter. Oil pump cavitation (or downright breaking gears like the Ecotec is known to) and valve spring fatigue will end up being the big issues with this engine format (shimming an OEM spring is not the same as an aftermarket spring, folks).

I doubt you'll ever see a rod break without a bearing showing oiling issues.

The Badger Midget rules utilizing the 2.4 engines allow dry sump, aftermarket stainless steel valves, aftermarket valve springs, aftermarket connecting rods, aftermarket pistons, etc. Badger Midgets require a non-ported OEM cyl head, an OEM engine block with no lightening, and balanced but not lightened OEM crankshaft (which limits bore and stroke options) allowing the rest to be "developed" utilizing aftermarket components. They do not have a rev limit for any engine. The engines utilizing these parts have reported max RPM at or above 8200 and horsepower of 300+

That's what I'm talking about! Bob

I do love the Badger formula, I think it's going to be a huge success. Hope it catches on in some other series one day.

The problem I see with the badger formula is that there is no way of controlling cost. Parts cost money. The stock port will keep some equality. But the more you can throw dollar wise the more you can get out of it. This hurts the us little guys. It is nice to see the popularity the production stuff is getting. As long as the cost is kept in check more people can afford to do it and maybe midget racing can grow in numbers! Just the thoughts of an old timer.

Hours of "homework" & chats with multiple RESPECTED people; I 2nd that ^. I guess it is "better" it's all open right away, then people just showing up with good stuff & getting it ok'd; while those that played by the rules get left behind...is what it is I guess...maybe I'll put one of my Halibrand rear-ends behind my 1976 Chevy2 & go vintage...lol...

So, by this (above) can I say IF RPM limits were set BELOW the revs that push the OEM pieces past their design, wouldn't that have actually saved $ & kept "2.4" "OEM" racing to it's original "pull it out of the junkyard" concept? (at it was "sold") - I understand "bouncing off the rev limiter" at any setting prolly not ideal, but - in line with the "big 3", I'd just think the lower paying "D2 STYLE" classes could do smthn of the same...NOW...

The way I see it, regardless of the rules, you'll never contain costs. The money just goes somewhere else. Patrick Bruns is now three for three in feature wins with Illini. If you want the same motor as what's in his house car, you can buy it from MWR for $15,000 and win you some $300 dollar races with it. Or you can buy new tires every week, double adjustable mono shocks, ti bolts, carbon fiber.... It's like an article I read that Matt Kenseth wrote years back about crate racing- the big money teams would buy 5 or 6 crate engines, dyno them all, and find the 'ringers' with a few more hp and sell the rest.

If I was two hours closer to Badger territory, I'd build a midget. As it is, I'm 90% sure we're going back to micro racing next year. I need a series where I can get my hands dirty as a car owner, trying to out fox the competition, even if I can't outspend them. Micro rules and Badger rules both give me that opportunity. I'm willing to do the homework, turn some wrenches, try new stuff. I'm just not the customer for the 'pull it out of a junkyard' series anymore than I am the 'write a big check to the engine builder' series.

Any interest in teaming up for some micro races? I have a complete engine (with Odom computer, electrics, carbs, etc) - idc what we run for RPM! (lol), all the parts that bolt on; a budget to run a handful of races, but no frame (I didn't install panard bar bolt with locktite & all the nut-& -bolt checks I do pre & during the race; failed me).