|
I cut a lot of sheet aluminum and since I can't afford a $1200 stomp shear I clamp the sheet in my break, drag a box cutter blade across it a couple times and bend it. Some of the cheaper softer alloys need to be bent back and forth 2-3 times to separate. The more expensive harder alloys such as 6061 and 7075 always snap clean on the first bend...usually at 45 degrees or less. It amazes me how easy the stuff separates once its continuity has been interrupted by a bit of a scratch.
I have always felt like one of the best indicators of a potential axle problem is an interruption in the anodize coloring. The reddish color on a winters, the purple on a Frankland (I think??) and the black on DMI axles are awesome because you can easily see the contrast of the raw aluminum color underneath. I can't remember which brand made gold anodize axles but you had to look a bit harder.
I don't worry so much when the color starts wearing off the splines where the wheels typically live as it is a very smooth, gradual change...almost like it's being polished off from constantly removing and moving wheels. When I see any sort of lateral scratch it gets frequent attention. When you see a scratch/groove running around the circumference, usually close to a birdcage, especially when they are an eighth inch wide and you can feel how deep they are with your finger, it's a good idea to find a replacement, at least for long enough to have yours inspected.
|