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To chime in on your question... in your application most wing car chassis will more than get the job done for you.. especially if you avoid one type and change a couple components..
For a low HP steel block engine package I would stay away from a 41" chassis.. they were developed to keep cars with high hp and lightweight engines from flying the front end so easily by moving the engine forward a bit... a 40 inch car will be a great all around option for your needs and is the most commonly built/easy to find...a 39" car may be a bit better if your tracks are mostly dryslick.
Changing the 50" winged axle out for a 52-53" nonwing front axle will make the car much more stable overall and reduce its tendency to trip over the right front on a tight/tacky/rough surface.
A set of nonwing birdcages will allow you to run the lower rear ride height settings that are common in wingless racing while still keeping the torsion arm angle in its effective range. Lowering the rear a bunch with standard bircages can result in the torsion arms being flat or even being elevated at the hiem end while at rest which can get the travel geometry and spring rate out of whack.
I spent one season running an open engine nonwing class in the car in my profile pic... I had a steel block/steel head 305 competing against any engine you can imagine.. the chassis was a Beaberbuilt car that had all the same pick up points and components as a normal maxim, eagle, triplx etc wing chassis.. it was an 86-39 car and all I changed was the front axle. Got a baseline bar/shock setup recommendation and made one small bar change the second night in it.. the rest of the season I never changed a bar. At the track through the night I changed stagger air pressure wheelspacing and swapped a couple shocks based on track conditions and that was it. The car drove like a Cadillac every night..actually had no problem competing with and beating cars with nonwing specific chassis and way more power regularly.
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